Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes that is correct

you have 7 days after you recieve the defect to drive it as you please

then one month after that to drive to and from workshops/vicroads during business hours

then they will suspend your rego and you must have the vehicle towed

All shit...this is what I did not hope for...ok so I got the defect notice like on the 24th of November...the 7 days leisure drive is obviously over, now in a couple of weeks it'll be the 24/12, does this mean after this date I won't be able to clear the defect anymore by way of driving from and to places but instead have to tow it?

I've been trying to call Vicroads all day today and their phones are busy...I'm currently interstate so cannot go there physically...I would really appreciate if someone can please confirm this as I'm now stressing my arse of and worrying that I won't have a car to drive around in...fark fark!!

yes as said a fair few times now.. you wont be able to drive the car after the 1 month period.. id suggest taking it to a workshop asap or get it taken to one where they can get it sorted on your behalf you dont have to personally clear the defect.

yes as said a fair few times now.. you wont be able to drive the car after the 1 month period.. id suggest taking it to a workshop asap or get it taken to one where they can get it sorted on your behalf you dont have to personally clear the defect.

Yeah...I know, but I'm caught up with work in Sydney for the next 2 weeks...do you know of any places that can "help me out on my behalf"? Would appreciate it if you can give me some pointers whether here or via PM.

Thanks.

depends where are u located? anyone will help you out at a cost.. could u get a mate to drop the car off somewhere?

then let the mechanic handle it from there..

if you want pm were ur based can suggest some places.

depends where are u located? anyone will help you out at a cost.. could u get a mate to drop the car off somewhere?

then let the mechanic handle it from there..

if you want pm were ur based can suggest some places.

Thanks mate...PM sent! :(

Well fellas, I've finally cleared my defect...decided to fly back for two days...spent over $2K on genuine parts, labour and a legit RWC and it's now fixed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...