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I was under the influence that SWM are just that, last time I saw some for a 1600 they were just torana radius rods machined down.

'machined down' meaning that they have more thread cut into them, not changing the overall diameter.

But hey what would I know, Ive just been running the same style machined radius rods on different cars for the last few years, no breakages to date. :cool:

Edited by works 510
sweet.

Any pics?

Should be plenty easy in the bluebird when I think about it, already has CA18 and s13 coilys,knuckles etc

I'll see what I can do about getting some pics :ninja:

if u runnin a s13 crossmember, im also assuming u could use a laurel member as well to run a rb ?

No bump steer issues thus far, but as far as I can see there should really be any, as it's pretty much transfering the complete S13 setup from one car to the other with minimal geometry changes. I dont see why you couldnt use a laurel cross member as all mounting points are identical between the S13 an laurel.

If all the bushes up front were new (nolothane orsuch) wouldnt it be alot better?

Look for the various bracings and reinforcements that can be done.

If George Fury & Glen Seaton could smash around the tracks with so much success in the 80's there aint too much reson to change is there?

I guess as Nissan engineered newer cars, the steering designs got better. Newer is normally better hey!

Steerign box rebuild alone costs around the $400 mark, so i guess that cost wont need to be repeated with the s13 spec conversion

If all the bushes up front were new (nolothane orsuch) wouldnt it be alot better?

Look for the various bracings and reinforcements that can be done.

If George Fury & Glen Seaton could smash around the tracks with so much success in the 80's there aint too much reson to change is there?

I guess as Nissan engineered newer cars, the steering designs got better. Newer is normally better hey!

Steerign box rebuild alone costs around the $400 mark, so i guess that cost wont need to be repeated with the s13 spec conversion

yea no wat ya sayin, bak in the 80s the drs were new !

less moving parts has be be better, youd be able to get more lok wit s13 rack + all the aftermarket goddies to go wit it

Engineer wouldnt like my castor rod mods unless they were re-heat treated etc, but I dont see why the s13 front end bits would be a major hassle assuming its a all bolt in affair using standard nissan parts that havent been modified in any way?

Engineer wouldnt like my castor rod mods unless they were re-heat treated etc, but I dont see why the s13 front end bits would be a major hassle assuming its a all bolt in affair using standard nissan parts that havent been modified in any way?

Changing the crossmember?

Unless the mount holes are identical to the 1600 or R30 & the rails need to be redrilled to suit, the engineer or Vic Roads is going to want to know about it.

Using the R31 crossmember, I know the mount holes are different spacings, cutting & welding the rack mounts onto an R30 crossmember requires engineers approval. Depending on how picky your authorities are and in Vic they are pretty leaniant unless the car is being sold, the S13 bits might create a problem then.

Don't know, but in NSW it's a bit tough, due probably to people like me when back in the 60's we were putting V8's in Morris Minors and 105E Anglias and 1800/2000cc MGB motors in A30's & A40 Farinas without a care in the world. I know 1 guy that put an 4.2 Jag motor into an FE Holden and the torque twisted the chassis/sub frame so that only 3 wheels touched the ground at any one time.

Cheers, D

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