Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Yamaha R6 More Hp Then Kgs. 0430828859 Gold Coast


Recommended Posts

yamaha crazy TURBO yamaha YZF R6- >220 hp, garrett turbo

Turbo yamaha YZF600R older R6- >220HP with a GARRETT TURBO, frontmount, bov

it has a ground up rebuilt motor spent $6000 on rebuild only done about 1000 ks

brand new heavy duty with bigger shims for more strength .

decompresed custom pipes

intercooler

planem

t25 garret turbo

with scremer

turbo smart blow of valve

autometer boost and air fuel gages

new sprokets

standared rear 2 nup on the front so it wil do over 300kph

before the rebuild had just over220hp at the rear weel @10psi very quick

no shortcuts taken.. wont build one cheaper....

too much to list........................

BUILDER CLAIMED OVER 20K WORTH OF RECEIPTS...

ASKING PRICE OF SETUP

was 15k now $7000.. 0430828859 gold coast

post-68974-1260353860_thumb.jpg

post-68974-1260353878_thumb.jpg

post-68974-1260353894_thumb.jpg

post-68974-1260353905_thumb.jpg



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...