Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used to have a turbosmart bov on my car with the spring set to "hard" i used to get a fluttering noise when backing off under low loads.I now have a stock bov which runs better but has a gay shhh to it.Now if i blank off the stock bov and run the afm on the i/c piping will i get the vl sound of "po po po".Ive heard that running the afm on the i/c is better as it gets a reading of the air flow ,temp after the effects of the intercooler.But mainly i want a more aggressive noise for the cool factor :D .Mods are 14psi,pod,large fmic,safc on a rb25.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30006-no-bov-afm-on-ic-piping/
Share on other sites

Hi Bo0sT_JuNkY, what you are describing sounds like no BOV at all. If that's the case then where you have the AFM is irrelevant. You can test this by disconnecting and blocking off the boost feed line to the BOV. If you like the noise, then that's it.

From Warspeed:

O/k guys, there seems to be some confusion here about how these things actually work.

The proper name for one of these devices is "a hot wire anemometer" and they measure air velocity.

There are actually two hot wires, but you can only see one. One is mounted near the middle of the moving air-stream, and a second one is mounted within the mounting stalk. The second hot-wire is immersed in the air-stream, but is located in still air.

An electric heating current flows through both wires, and this current heats both wires. Now as the wires become hot the electrical resistance of the wire changes.

If there is zero airflow, both wires will reach equal temperatures, and the voltages and currents in both wires will be identical. The electronics senses this, and outputs a zero flow signal voltage.

Because there are two wires, they will always be at the same temperature, even though the ambient temperature may vary very widely. That is why there two wires to cancel changes in ambient air temperature.

Now when there is air movement through the flow-meter, the wire in the air-stream cools down slightly, because the moving air carries away some heat. This causes the electrical resistance of the wires to be different (because one is now hotter than the other).

The electronics senses the difference, and feeds more heating current into the colder wire to force the temperatures back to being the same. The amount of extra power fed to the cooler wire (located in the moving air-stream) is the actual flow-meter output signal.

There is a very sensitive amplifier to detect even minute differences in the wire temperatures, so air velocities over a very wide range can rapidly bring the wire temperatures back to equilibrium.

Now if you place the hot wire anemometer in a tube of known cross sectional area, it becomes a flow-meter. A known flow will create a known flow velocity, which equates to a certain signal output voltage.

...and...

Another interesting characteristic of these things, is that they are sensitive to air density. At high altitude where the air is thinner, less heat will be removed by the flowing air from the hot wire. So the flow-meter automatically shows less airflow when the air is thinner. A useful characteristic.

The crux is that the Nissan AFM's give a reading that is independant of temp and pressure and from a flow measuring perspective it shouldnt really matter where it goes. Consider tho that the AFM is plastic and so you may want to be careful about putting hot pressurised air through it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
    • Fair enough, I am in no way a tire expert so I'm not familiar with all the terms and conditions. I'll definitely note down the AD09 to potentially try in the future. Rain is not too big of a concern for now as I will probably only drive in the rain when I have to. And considering I still lack experience driving the GTR I'd more than likely take it easy too. I have coilovers in the car but as I barely got to drive so far I never bothered to even check if they are adjustable haha. The suspension is almost entirely old and worn as well so I suppose when I eventually fix that in the future that would make a huge difference.
×
×
  • Create New...