Jump to content
SAU Community

Immobiliser So Close To Working!

storeman

By storeman,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

storeman Newbie

storeman

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

First post on here, or anywhere for that matter.

Recently purchased a 90 model skyline and in an endeavour to keep it mine decided to install an immobiliser myself. I opted for a "VISION VAE 315-950" being all black wiring, Aust Standards and the right price (unused but 2nd hand). Install was going great untill it came to testing. The unit is designed to self arm if the car is not turned on after 40 seconds of being disarmed. the problem is it will disarm fine, can start the car fine then 3 seconds after starting the LED indcator turns on solid through till the 40 second mark when the immobiliser will rearm itself and shut the car off (starve of fuel being fuel pump and starter circuits cut). I can then disarm the immobiliser and start the car and go through the same process again.

This immobiliser is an immobiliser or full alarm system. It can be changed from one to the other with some turns of the ignition. So I tried to hook up the door trigger thinking it had to be working for the immobiliser to function correctly. It doesn't suggest this in the book.Is this the case with other immobilisers?

Anyway it was meant to be a -Ve feed wire (door trigger) so i rigged up a quick extention to hook it into the door plunger switch and it didn't seem to make a difference. I later found out while scratching head, that the door trigger feed from the alarm box was actually a possitive wire! So I have now fried something in the circuit between the door trigger and the interior light because it doesn't work anymore!! (passenger side still works fine so not fuse). Tried to program it from +Ve to -Ve with some ignition turns but it doesn't register or confirm that I have programmed anything! I'm getting so frustrated cause I can't think of why it would be doing this. It seems as though you can disarm it, start the car but then the alarm unit doesn't register the the car has even been started so arms itself again.

I know these alarms arn't very common, in skylines anyway, cause I haven't heard a single mention of any VISION products in the copious amount of posts I have sifted through.

Can someone with extencive troubleshooting knowledge please give some usefull possibilities as to what may be amiss? I don't have great understanding of electrics. Just a very curious approach to things.

Oh and everything is hooked up as per the instruction (very loose term) booklet. I think (shrugs shoulders) Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300107-immobiliser-so-close-to-working/
Share on other sites
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

sorryI hate to be the one to say this again.... but this is the main reason I don't recommend installing your own alarms. leave it to the PRO please

and a little trial and error can do more damage then you think ... so be careful

storeman Newbie

storeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sorryI hate to be the one to say this again.... but this is the main reason I don't recommend installing your own alarms. leave it to the PRO please

and a little trial and error can do more damage then you think ... so be careful

Fair call. But I would really like to know if this whole rearming thing is something that can be explained. If it wasn't for this stupid little "issue" I would have the wiring all tidied up and be out in the mountains having some hard core fun!! Seriously, it must be something simple that is causing the car to rearm itself while it's running??

I appreciate the frustration of hearing that some other dick has gone out and stuffed his car I really can, but what I need is a genuine reply with some info on why the immobiliser is rearming. The door trigger is a seperate issue as far as I'm concerned and can be dealt with at a later date.

I know there are some really helpful people in the industry on here so please give me some ideas. Cheers!

storeman Newbie

storeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update, System is now working! Ignition "ON" wire was conected incorrectly. The sneaky thing changes colour as you chase it up under the dash which I discovered last night while tracing everything for the 100th time to find my mistake. Turns out I had the ignition "ON" feed wire connected to one of the start wires so it would disarm, then when you start the car and the key goes back to the on position the alarm thought because the power that it saw while the car was starting had gone the car must have been switched off so went into it's 40 second to lock down mode. Makes sence now I have figured it out!

While testing that the indicators and everything still work correctly I found that they don't work from the indicator stalk unless you complete the circuit by having the hazard light loom plug connected (as I had most of the dash shrouding off for the exercise). So I'm now thinking that the reason the door trigger is not showing any current is because the headlight controls are not connected. and beacuse it beeps at you when you leave your headlights on and open the door I'm thinking thats where the break in the circuit is (I didn't check for power at the door trigger before I shoved the trigger feed from the alarm into it so have no reference point of it's statise before hand). I'm hoping this is the case. If it is, it's a complete and successful project and the wiring is hidden so well in a months time even I won't be able to find the shit!!

Could go into fine detail but for the sake of keeping the secret shit secret I won't.

Should be tidied up and back on the road in a day or too (thank god!!) I forgot how sweet it sounds at full noise!! :cool: Have plans for a few more DIYs in the future ie

Cold air intake

transplanting a r34 smic into r32

setting up new headunit with Jaycar splits at all 4 corners, sound deadning etc (looking forward to this 1)

and what ever else comes up once the HP bug hits me (which I'm told will happen!)

So let me know if any step by step "tutorial" on any of this sort of simple mods would be of interest. Or I can stop cluttering this forum with my dribble :(

frx026 Proficient

frx026

Posted
Posted
Have plans for a few more DIYs in the future ie

Cold air intake

transplanting a r34 smic into r32

setting up new headunit with Jaycar splits at all 4 corners, sound deadning etc (looking forward to this 1)

and what ever else comes up once the HP bug hits me (which I'm told will happen!)

So let me know if any step by step "tutorial" on any of this sort of simple mods would be of interest. Or I can stop cluttering this forum with my dribble :D

The R34 smic is a great little upgrade for a r32 or r33. If you can, see if you can find a ARC R34 smic. They are a little larger again but will fit in without cutting etc. I have one in my R33 and its been a good power up.

If your gonna run splits in all for corners dont install the tweeters in the rear. This is what I used to do when I worked in Car Audio. All our company demo cars were set up like this. Or we would just chop the tweeters out of a set of two ways for a laugh. Either way you dont want a lot of treble from the back, just mids, then dump in a sub to complete the set up.

Next as far as mods that are good bang for buck, go for a full exhaust (turbo back), boost controller and a little piggy back computer like a SAFC or somethind and a fuel pump.

Basic mods, but they will make a noticable difference to your car.

storeman Newbie

storeman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The R34 smic is a great little upgrade for a r32 or r33. If you can, see if you can find a ARC R34 smic. They are a little larger again but will fit in without cutting etc. I have one in my R33 and its been a good power up.

If your gonna run splits in all for corners dont install the tweeters in the rear. This is what I used to do when I worked in Car Audio. All our company demo cars were set up like this. Or we would just chop the tweeters out of a set of two ways for a laugh. Either way you dont want a lot of treble from the back, just mids, then dump in a sub to complete the set up.

Next as far as mods that are good bang for buck, go for a full exhaust (turbo back), boost controller and a little piggy back computer like a SAFC or somethind and a fuel pump.

Basic mods, but they will make a noticable difference to your car.

Cheers for the feed back! So the 34 smic will gain (all be it modest) power for the 32? I assumed it would being roughly twice the thickness. I haven't had time yet to pull the splash guard off yet but I've been told with the 34 cooler I will have to get either the intake or outlet cut off and relocated to the other side so it will fit up. Is this correct?

Sorry, this whole post is going way off the original topic.

My car all ready has the full 3', boost controller, larger turbo don't know exactly what it is but some sort of Garett HKS hybrid and water injection all installed by previous owner.

I'm just wondering, could I expect any noticable improvement from upgrading the fuel pump without installing bigger injectors? Just trying to get straight in my head what the most affordable bang for buck upgrades would be considering it's just my weekend worrior and the wife has restricted the slush funds (damn it!!!) in place of an extention. The car currently puts out 163rwkw on 12 pound which I find a hell of a lot of fun as it is but...... well you all know!

Cheers! :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...