Immobiliser So Close To Working!

[storeman]

Hi all,

First post on here, or anywhere for that matter.

Recently purchased a 90 model skyline and in an endeavour to keep it mine decided to install an immobiliser myself. I opted for a "VISION VAE 315-950" being all black wiring, Aust Standards and the right price (unused but 2nd hand). Install was going great untill it came to testing. The unit is designed to self arm if the car is not turned on after 40 seconds of being disarmed. the problem is it will disarm fine, can start the car fine then 3 seconds after starting the LED indcator turns on solid through till the 40 second mark when the immobiliser will rearm itself and shut the car off (starve of fuel being fuel pump and starter circuits cut). I can then disarm the immobiliser and start the car and go through the same process again.

This immobiliser is an immobiliser or full alarm system. It can be changed from one to the other with some turns of the ignition. So I tried to hook up the door trigger thinking it had to be working for the immobiliser to function correctly. It doesn't suggest this in the book.Is this the case with other immobilisers?

Anyway it was meant to be a -Ve feed wire (door trigger) so i rigged up a quick extention to hook it into the door plunger switch and it didn't seem to make a difference. I later found out while scratching head, that the door trigger feed from the alarm box was actually a possitive wire! So I have now fried something in the circuit between the door trigger and the interior light because it doesn't work anymore!! (passenger side still works fine so not fuse). Tried to program it from +Ve to -Ve with some ignition turns but it doesn't register or confirm that I have programmed anything! I'm getting so frustrated cause I can't think of why it would be doing this. It seems as though you can disarm it, start the car but then the alarm unit doesn't register the the car has even been started so arms itself again.

I know these alarms arn't very common, in skylines anyway, cause I haven't heard a single mention of any VISION products in the copious amount of posts I have sifted through.

Can someone with extencive troubleshooting knowledge please give some usefull possibilities as to what may be amiss? I don't have great understanding of electrics. Just a very curious approach to things.

Oh and everything is hooked up as per the instruction (very loose term) booklet. I think (shrugs shoulders) Thanks in advance for any assistance.

[Carbon 34]

sorryI hate to be the one to say this again.... but this is the main reason I don't recommend installing your own alarms. leave it to the PRO please

and a little trial and error can do more damage then you think ... so be careful

[storeman]

sorryI hate to be the one to say this again.... but this is the main reason I don't recommend installing your own alarms. leave it to the PRO please

and a little trial and error can do more damage then you think ... so be careful

Fair call. But I would really like to know if this whole rearming thing is something that can be explained. If it wasn't for this stupid little "issue" I would have the wiring all tidied up and be out in the mountains having some hard core fun!! Seriously, it must be something simple that is causing the car to rearm itself while it's running??

I appreciate the frustration of hearing that some other dick has gone out and stuffed his car I really can, but what I need is a genuine reply with some info on why the immobiliser is rearming. The door trigger is a seperate issue as far as I'm concerned and can be dealt with at a later date.

I know there are some really helpful people in the industry on here so please give me some ideas. Cheers!

[storeman]

Update, System is now working! Ignition "ON" wire was conected incorrectly. The sneaky thing changes colour as you chase it up under the dash which I discovered last night while tracing everything for the 100th time to find my mistake. Turns out I had the ignition "ON" feed wire connected to one of the start wires so it would disarm, then when you start the car and the key goes back to the on position the alarm thought because the power that it saw while the car was starting had gone the car must have been switched off so went into it's 40 second to lock down mode. Makes sence now I have figured it out!

While testing that the indicators and everything still work correctly I found that they don't work from the indicator stalk unless you complete the circuit by having the hazard light loom plug connected (as I had most of the dash shrouding off for the exercise). So I'm now thinking that the reason the door trigger is not showing any current is because the headlight controls are not connected. and beacuse it beeps at you when you leave your headlights on and open the door I'm thinking thats where the break in the circuit is (I didn't check for power at the door trigger before I shoved the trigger feed from the alarm into it so have no reference point of it's statise before hand). I'm hoping this is the case. If it is, it's a complete and successful project and the wiring is hidden so well in a months time even I won't be able to find the shit!!

Could go into fine detail but for the sake of keeping the secret shit secret I won't.

Should be tidied up and back on the road in a day or too (thank god!!) I forgot how sweet it sounds at full noise!! Have plans for a few more DIYs in the future ie

Cold air intake

transplanting a r34 smic into r32

setting up new headunit with Jaycar splits at all 4 corners, sound deadning etc (looking forward to this 1)

and what ever else comes up once the HP bug hits me (which I'm told will happen!)

So let me know if any step by step "tutorial" on any of this sort of simple mods would be of interest. Or I can stop cluttering this forum with my dribble

[Shiraz200SX]

smic is total waste of time + money. as are splits all round. as are jaycar splits.

1. FMIC

2. Splits in front, coaxials in rear

3. not jaycar, fusion, any polk under $400, clarion, or any other poo brands.

[frx026]

Have plans for a few more DIYs in the future ie

Cold air intake

transplanting a r34 smic into r32

setting up new headunit with Jaycar splits at all 4 corners, sound deadning etc (looking forward to this 1)

and what ever else comes up once the HP bug hits me (which I'm told will happen!)

So let me know if any step by step "tutorial" on any of this sort of simple mods would be of interest. Or I can stop cluttering this forum with my dribble

The R34 smic is a great little upgrade for a r32 or r33. If you can, see if you can find a ARC R34 smic. They are a little larger again but will fit in without cutting etc. I have one in my R33 and its been a good power up.

If your gonna run splits in all for corners dont install the tweeters in the rear. This is what I used to do when I worked in Car Audio. All our company demo cars were set up like this. Or we would just chop the tweeters out of a set of two ways for a laugh. Either way you dont want a lot of treble from the back, just mids, then dump in a sub to complete the set up.

Next as far as mods that are good bang for buck, go for a full exhaust (turbo back), boost controller and a little piggy back computer like a SAFC or somethind and a fuel pump.

Basic mods, but they will make a noticable difference to your car.

[storeman]

The R34 smic is a great little upgrade for a r32 or r33. If you can, see if you can find a ARC R34 smic. They are a little larger again but will fit in without cutting etc. I have one in my R33 and its been a good power up.

If your gonna run splits in all for corners dont install the tweeters in the rear. This is what I used to do when I worked in Car Audio. All our company demo cars were set up like this. Or we would just chop the tweeters out of a set of two ways for a laugh. Either way you dont want a lot of treble from the back, just mids, then dump in a sub to complete the set up.

Next as far as mods that are good bang for buck, go for a full exhaust (turbo back), boost controller and a little piggy back computer like a SAFC or somethind and a fuel pump.

Basic mods, but they will make a noticable difference to your car.

Cheers for the feed back! So the 34 smic will gain (all be it modest) power for the 32? I assumed it would being roughly twice the thickness. I haven't had time yet to pull the splash guard off yet but I've been told with the 34 cooler I will have to get either the intake or outlet cut off and relocated to the other side so it will fit up. Is this correct?

Sorry, this whole post is going way off the original topic.

My car all ready has the full 3', boost controller, larger turbo don't know exactly what it is but some sort of Garett HKS hybrid and water injection all installed by previous owner.

I'm just wondering, could I expect any noticable improvement from upgrading the fuel pump without installing bigger injectors? Just trying to get straight in my head what the most affordable bang for buck upgrades would be considering it's just my weekend worrior and the wife has restricted the slush funds (damn it!!!) in place of an extention. The car currently puts out 163rwkw on 12 pound which I find a hell of a lot of fun as it is but...... well you all know!

Cheers!