Jump to content
SAU Community

Assistance With Series 2 R33.

KaiShin

By KaiShin,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

KaiShin Enthusiast

KaiShin

Posted
Posted

Hey Everyone,

Ive been building my rb25det r33 series 2 over the last 12 months or so.

I have it to the stage where it is ready to be registered etc. And have had it running.

However, it looks like it is in safe mode and very possibly the AFM is not working.

Has anyone got any sure fire ways of testing the AFM to see if it is in fact broken or do I need to find someone with a working AFM and hook it up to test it out?

I have checked ohms across all three points on the AFM and none of them read '0' so I am assuming that somewhere inside it is failing at resisting :banana:.

Some info. The 02 sensor is a brand new bosch replacement. So this should be working 100% (unless my wiring fails, which Id like to think I wired it correctly). The AFM seems to be the culprit.

Any thoughts from anyone? Or anyone living near Petrie north Brisbane with a spare series 2 AFM we could throw on it to test.

Cheers,

Trent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300206-assistance-with-series-2-r33/
Share on other sites
Revhead Grand Master

Revhead

Posted
Posted

Woohoo, not far to go now mate :P

Does it sound like it's rev limiting at 2.5-3k, or will it just not rev past there? Have you checked for intake leaks? You mention rewiring, did you have to rewire the AFM as well (or did you use a Ford O2 sensor and have to modify the wiring for that)? Are you sure the wiring is correct, the plug is OK, and the wiring hasn't pulled out of the plug slightly?

If you are able to get hold of someone who has Consult and a diags cable they'll be able to tell you what the sensors (including the AFM) are reading. I don't know enough about electronics to tell you what resistance the different terminals should be (though I'd think if they're all infinity you'll have a problem :) ) but 'normal' output voltages are between 0V (no airflow) to 5V (max airflow, ~220rwkw), so at idle I'd imagine it'd be reading around 0.2 - 0.3V?? You should be able to check that with the multimeter too if you suspect the AFM.

I live on the northside too and have an S2 R33, I'm happy to pop around with the car or even just the AFM, but I often work pretty long hours so getting to you might be an issue. If you don't have any luck getting it sorted and can't get someone nearby, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

KaiShin Enthusiast

KaiShin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Mate,

Ive got a consult cable and software on the way as we speak to check it out.

The 02 sensor is a brand newey. 3 wire type. Wiring for it was 2 white wires and a coloured wire. All the info around said that the two white wires were just the negatives and could be hooked up to either of the negative loom wires etc. So, fairly straight forward (will see once the consult is here LOL)

The AFM plug was removed from the loom when I got it. So I had to wire a plug into it. Have got wiring diagrams etc. On paper its right. Just dont think the AFM is up to scratch.. once again. consult will tell.

Il wait out till it arrives and check it out. As i wouldnt want to damage your AFM just for trying its sake.

Will let you know. Thanks for the offer.

Cheers

Damit Proficient

Damit

Posted
Posted

hmm sounds like the problem im having again

and by cutting out do you mean stuttering and struggling to go but soon as you put you foot down and get above the rev range it is fine

if so i had the same prob and its starting to come back

for me it was the o2 sensor got a new one and didn't have an issue for 8 months

KaiShin Enthusiast

KaiShin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey,

Mine is a little different. It bounces off of 2500-3000 like a ceiling. The ECU is in Safe mode. And the car runs no different with the AFM connected or unplugged.

Hint Hint lol.

Wont know if the O2 sensor is an issue as well until I fix the AFM issue. as the AFM is clearly not functioning.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...