Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK... I think is time for me to tell... if you are buying an 89 GTR.

1. See the auction list or paper. THE ODE on the paper is the correct one. i would say 99% of the stuff on the paper is true about the car. JAP are honest people.

2. After X-mas the car price in JAP auction is going to drop again. THAT IS FOP SURE. ASK Around those who import car.

3. GOOD LUCK to those who are trying to sell their GTR at a higher price cause i know alot of them will be wasting their time and money for advertising.

4. IF i am going to pay 30K for a GTR over here, I rather get an 89 GTR and use the rest of money and buit it up MYself, also i choose what ever part which i think is good for my car and also the part that i get is NEW!!!!!. rather paying 15K extra to get a decent one for 30K. Yes the car may not bring you trouble, but then agin when my 89 arrive i will be paying the same price as for let say now i pay 15K for car and 15K for parts. However most of my part will be NEW.

Hope this HELP.

yes, but a car that may have been thrashed and not taken care of very well will tend to have more things go wrong with it and with a GTR, these things won't be cheap to fix. As long as you are aware of this significant risk, then good luck with your purchase. I just don't think that it is wise to give all these people who want to buy a GTR the misguided notion that a 15K GTR is going to be a perfect car. It will be in fair to good condition unless you are very lucky to find a cheap and clean one.

well if you are getting a 15K car , for sure most of us will prepare another sum of money for the car... it all depent on how far you want to go, also a good advice is ask whom ever who import the car for you, for the action paper or document about the car, only trust the document on orther stuff they say..

There are plenty of 15K landed GTRs in Japan. I have seen them sell for as low as 450,000 yen ($5,700 raw price), but you get what you pay for. pay that little bit exta aand get a clean one, or just buy one already here.

calvin, we've been thru this before, did you happen to watch the price change in the market after the SEVS laws came in?

People who buy 1989 GTRs are completely different people to those who buy a an R33 GTR. You're gonna find a lot of 21yr olds who wanna go fast n know jack about the costs of maintaining a GTR going to companies n car yards sayin

"here's my 20k, now where's my GTR so I can brag to every1 I have a GTR... oh t has rust all over the underbody and the firewall? Oh the mild steel exhaust system is rotting from the inside? Oh the interior is torn to shreds from 15 yrs of use? Oh the atessa system is buggered coz everything from my AFM to my LSD hasn't been looked at since my car's free servicing peroid ended 13 yrs ago? Oh my engine has bits in it from 15 yrs of metal particles collecting in it? Dosen't matter... I still have a GTR so what if it'll cost me more than 15k of repairs eventually before I sell it, and that its resale value will be bugger all next year when the 1990 GTRs are 15 yrs old, and that it'll spend more time at my mechanic being fixed than in m garage in the fist 4 months."

Compare that to a person in their mid to late 20's and upwards, who have a tertiary qualification, and have been saving up for a good 2 years for a 1995 R33 GTR. Almost all the guys i've met with 33 GTRs are in this category. Its really dumb to think that a bunch of kids buying cheap cars is gonna drive down the price of a car which sells to a completely different market.

The number of enthusiasts who will pick an R32 over an R33 when they can afford the GTR spec in both models is very close to zero. I bag the f**k thru R33's but if I had the money I'd rather spend it on an R33 GTR than on an R32 GTR.

What you ARE gonna find is that R33 GTSt prices will fall, as these are the guys who want to go up that notch to the "I have a GTR club" yet can't afford to buy the R33 GTR, so they are willing to sacrifice their R33 GTSt's reliability for more power. Look out for Secondhand aussie owned R33 GTSt prices to fall.

well i can afford a r33gtr but if i can i get r32gtr in good condition i think it will be better then r33 because i just i like the looks more and its alot easier on the pocket

i use to own a s15 and had over 20k of mods in it so that i know how much is to maintain a gtr so not all 20 know jack about cars like you suggest

thats just depends on you i put alot of mods in my s15 because i am very competitive everytime i lose a race i would install a performance part etc i would just recommend to get one in good condition and dont be scared by the age but pay attention on how the owner kept it

my friend own a 34gtt which has so many performance part in his car but he never push the pedal (weirdo) and now he sold it 34000 which is a bargin consider all those goodies in it so i suggest there is cars thats well look after and has low price and just be paitient and shop around and jump at the opptunity if its a bargin

You're gonna find a lot of 21yr olds
Read... it says a lot... not "all". Obviously there's exceptions to every case I'm just stereotyping here as you do when trying to predict the market.

And I agree that you should be more concerned about the keep of the car than its age. My last car was a 1990 CA18DET 180sx, with a strawberry face conversion, and it went thru car shows n drags and efficiently made 174rwkw. So age dosen't matter. ts the condition that you get the car in.

If you look in the jap market (trust me I've been combing the amrket with jspec for a while) I've found that all the 1989 ones you get for less than 900,000 Yen (rougly about 12 grand) are all pretty much sparepart material or need a LOT of restoration. The mint ones go for about 1.5 million yen, and the average oens are aroun 1.1 to 1.2 million yen. And trust me, we been thru and inspected many at car yards, dealers, yahoo auctions and even the USS auctions etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
×
×
  • Create New...