Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, hope you all had a good christmas.

recently put a new cat back exhaust on my r34 GTT and am wandering if it needs to be tuned up or anything like that, the car is pretty standard but i feel its using a little more fuel than it should.

Wanting to get a boost controller fitted but heard theyre quite pointless unless the ecu or power fc is upgraded or the old one remapped??? What psi can you run the rb25detneo at before things are needed to be upgraded??

Would love to get it up 350hp to 400hp but am not sure where to start???

In need of some new coilpacks, can you guys recomend any in particular, superspark, jjr, yellowjackets. Dont really want to be forking out $600

Any help will be great, thankyou.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/
Share on other sites

given your new my recommendation is to find your local club's chapter in perth and attend their club meetings

from there you can meet all the local guys and ask away and find a good suitable workshop

this will save dozens of wasted time, hours, pain and $$$ on crap mods etc

if you cant be bothered doing that, do a search on the tune up threads either in the forced induction section or how to

this type of thread comes up weekly and all the good info, pricing etc is in those threads

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/#findComment-5007092
Share on other sites

Dont bother taking the car to get tuned at this stage. Your next step would be to look at intercooler, and the front half of the exhaust (dump pipe through to Cat convertor). Then look at an Engine management solution (including tuning) Is it manual or automatic? (I haven't had a lot to do with r34's but i believe the Auto transmissions have special circumstances when it comes to ECU changes??) Either way i'm sure somebody else will respond regarding that. (or search the site on the topic)

For boost control, I personally wouldn't bother at this stage (others will argue). Once you change the rest of exhaust and the cooler your boost will creep up not that far from the lower end of the safe limit of the turbo anyway.

For coilpacks. I personally recommend Splitfires. Solved all my missfiring dramas instantly. (never used any other aftermarket brand for compare though).

Cheers. Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/#findComment-5007097
Share on other sites

Dont bother taking the car to get tuned at this stage. Your next step would be to look at intercooler, and the front half of the exhaust (dump pipe through to Cat convertor). Then look at an Engine management solution (including tuning) Is it manual or automatic? (I haven't had a lot to do with r34's but i believe the Auto transmissions have special circumstances when it comes to ECU changes??) Either way i'm sure somebody else will respond regarding that. (or search the site on the topic)

For boost control, I personally wouldn't bother at this stage (others will argue). Once you change the rest of exhaust and the cooler your boost will creep up not that far from the lower end of the safe limit of the turbo anyway.

For coilpacks. I personally recommend Splitfires. Solved all my missfiring dramas instantly. (never used any other aftermarket brand for compare though).

Cheers. Luke

Manual. Ive got 3 inch to the cat, a high flow cat and then 3 inch the rest of the way through and a high flow muffler. also have the apexi pod filter and after doing that the boost has stayed the exact same, i thought it may have creeped up a little but it hasnt done anything.

I think its only pulling around 5-7 psi not a lot, bit pissed off. How can i change that??

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/#findComment-5007111
Share on other sites

Should notice it more after a decent front mount intercooler.

Also for your info regarding being pissed off about 5-7psi. When I got my power fc tuned I got some pre tune results on stock ecu. My 33 made about the same power on 8 psi as it did on 11 psi (except 8psi gave much more midrange power due to ecu). More boost isnt always more power if everything else isnt sorted. If its manual i'd look at a power fc. Although theres options galore these days. If you can make the same power on 9 psi as you can on 12. Go for it, things will last much longer.

Start at page 1 on Forced induction. Flick through the topics until you hit about page 20 or so. You should be able to find a few topics on most of your current questions + future questions there.

Cheers. Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/#findComment-5007130
Share on other sites

Should notice it more after a decent front mount intercooler.

Also for your info regarding being pissed off about 5-7psi. When I got my power fc tuned I got some pre tune results on stock ecu. My 33 made about the same power on 8 psi as it did on 11 psi (except 8psi gave much more midrange power due to ecu). More boost isnt always more power if everything else isnt sorted. If its manual i'd look at a power fc. Although theres options galore these days. If you can make the same power on 9 psi as you can on 12. Go for it, things will last much longer.

Start at page 1 on Forced induction. Flick through the topics until you hit about page 20 or so. You should be able to find a few topics on most of your current questions + future questions there.

Cheers. Luke

Thankyou.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/#findComment-5007134
Share on other sites

without changing ur turbo rb20 actuator lol :)

whoops i ment with the rb25 turbo if u put on the rb20 turbos actuator u can have 10psi insted of 7.. rb20 turbos stock boost is higher was half asleep when i wrote previously lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301673-mods-and-tuning/#findComment-5007836
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...