Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im looking at upgrading my brakes on my s15 to either r32 gtr brakes front and rear or r33 gtr brembos front and rear

i was also thinking of upgrading the rear subframe from a r33 gtr diff shafts ect... would this help me with upgrading my brakes?

any info would be great

thanks

The R32 GTR brakes are much better than the stock S15 brakes. The front calipers are much lighter while still being a larger sink (however the pistons are the same). The rotor diameter is larger on the front (296mm vs 280mm). The rear is completely different. The R32 GTR uses a 297mm rotor with 2x38mm pistons whereas the S15 has a 257mm non-ventilated rotor with 1x38mm piston.

The only thing is you will need to convert your handbrake assembly to the Skyline setup as well as the GTR runs a drum handbrake in the rear. To do this you will need R33 GTS-T handbrake cables as the R32 ones are too short for the S15 chassis.

As for the R33 GTR setup. I don't believe its worth the money people ask. The only real advantage it has over the R32 GTR setup is the front rotor size. If you want you can buy caliper offset brackets and run the 324mm R33 GTR rotors with the R32 GTR calipers and therefore have 95% of the braking capacity the GTR Brembos offer but for significantly less money.

In short. Parts needed:

R32 GTR Setup:

R32 GTR Front calipers

R32 GTR Front rotors

R32 GTR Rear calipers

R32 GTR Rear rotors

R32 GTR Rear handbrake assembly

R33 GTS-T handbrake cables

R33 GTR Setup:

R33 GTR Front calipers

R33 GTR Front rotors

R33 GTR Rear calipers

R33 GTR Rear rotors

R33 GTS-T handbrake cables

R32 GTR or R33 GTS-T handbrake assembly (R33 GTR will NOT fit unless you use the R33 GTR hubs and therefore driveshafts etc)

The R33 runs 5 bolt driveshafts so you can either:

- Swap your S15 diff center into the R33 diff and use your S15 6 bolt driveshafts OR;

- Install the complete R33 diff with the R33 driveshafts into your S15 subframe.

The S15 subframe is stronger than the R33 unit so I'd keep it.

The R33 runs 5 bolt driveshafts so you can either:

- Swap your S15 diff center into the R33 diff and use your S15 6 bolt driveshafts OR;

- Install the complete R33 diff with the R33 driveshafts into your S15 subframe.

The S15 subframe is stronger than the R33 unit so I'd keep it.

if i was to put the r33 diff and shafts into my subframe, is there any modifying needed? im only after and diff ratios so what would be there easiest also i have the auto s15 diff so its not helical its viscous if thats any help?

Ah. In that case. Assuming your S15 viscous centre is in good condition you can just tap the 5 bolt half shafts out of an ABS R33 diff and tap your S15 ones into it. Then the whole thing will bolt straight in.

Ah. In that case. Assuming your S15 viscous centre is in good condition you can just tap the 5 bolt half shafts out of an ABS R33 diff and tap your S15 ones into it. Then the whole thing will bolt straight in.

ok so will the diff mount the same into the subframe? also the speedo sensor on the s15 runs from the diff? if i was to get the diff gears out of a r33 diff and put them into mine? would that be fine?

cheers

ok so will the diff mount the same into the subframe? also the speedo sensor on the s15 runs from the diff? if i was to get the diff gears out of a r33 diff and put them into mine? would that be fine?

cheers

The ABS sensors on the R33 and the S15 diffs are the same. So is the back cover. You may as well just leave the diff gears in the R33 housing.

  • 10 years later...
On 29/12/2009 at 7:40 AM, Equinox said:

The R32 GTR brakes are much better than the stock S15 brakes. The front calipers are much lighter while still being a larger sink (however the pistons are the same). The rotor diameter is larger on the front (296mm vs 280mm). The rear is completely different. The R32 GTR uses a 297mm rotor with 2x38mm pistons whereas the S15 has a 257mm non-ventilated rotor with 1x38mm piston.

The only thing is you will need to convert your handbrake assembly to the Skyline setup as well as the GTR runs a drum handbrake in the rear. To do this you will need R33 GTS-T handbrake cables as the R32 ones are too short for the S15 chassis.

As for the R33 GTR setup. I don't believe its worth the money people ask. The only real advantage it has over the R32 GTR setup is the front rotor size. If you want you can buy caliper offset brackets and run the 324mm R33 GTR rotors with the R32 GTR calipers and therefore have 95% of the braking capacity the GTR Brembos offer but for significantly less money.

In short. Parts needed:

R32 GTR Setup:

R32 GTR Front calipers

R32 GTR Front rotors

R32 GTR Rear calipers

R32 GTR Rear rotors

R32 GTR Rear handbrake assembly

R33 GTS-T handbrake cables

R33 GTR Setup:

R33 GTR Front calipers

R33 GTR Front rotors

R33 GTR Rear calipers

R33 GTR Rear rotors

R33 GTS-T handbrake cables

R32 GTR or R33 GTS-T handbrake assembly (R33 GTR will NOT fit unless you use the R33 GTR hubs and therefore driveshafts etc)

PM sent

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...