Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Selling my car to clear up some funds and going overseas

Purchased this about 12 months ago stock, black, clean condition with After market 4inch exhaust.

Its remained stock and untouched during my time of ownership. Interior is immaculate and drives like a dream,

I cannot stress anymore how original and clean this car is, hence, reason why I purchased it.

but it needs to go to a new owner now :P and I rarely get to drive it nowadays.

Car: 1990 Nissan Skyline GTR in Genuine Black

Mileage: 76 XXX km

Details:

- The car is a 1990 R32 GTR (black)

- All Power options, air con, climate control, Power mirrors and windows all functional, Kenwood CD player. Interior is Immaculate

- I purchased it with 70 500km on it. It now sits on 76500km or around there. Rarely driven as i have other cars

- Remote engine start along with a 3 point immobilizer and Alarm has been installed, Vehicle can be started with a distance of 500m away from driver by holding "A Certain button sequence" (very handy for warming up car)

- 4inch Exhaust has been installed, Sounds perfect, Perfect note of the RB26, not overally loud.

- Engine runs as smooth as, with no noises at all

- Gearbox and clutch are still perfect - no noises, no crunching/grinding. Very very smooth shifting feel.

- Its has also had a Full major service (everything replaced All fluids) Im very tedious with my cars, wanted to keep it mechanically A1 110% perfect no questions.

- Car will also come with 18Inch Lenso Muse Alloy rims.

The car is mechanically A1 with no issues what so ever guaranteed. It has never been modified/touched in any other way accept as stated above. This is truely a regretful sale as its very hard to find a original clean R32 GTR today.

Price: Im after $16,299 I am negociable aswell

Open to swaps for a cheap daily or van

Any questions or queries, please dont hestitate to contact me via email or on 0401 195 761.

Pictures:

gtr2.jpg

P7090080.jpg

P7090076.jpg

6724146.jpg

P6270044.jpg

P6270065.jpg

P6270060.jpg

P1020387.jpg

2125261.jpg

P6270045.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302135-syd-fs-1990-r32-gtr-black/
Share on other sites

do u have any pics of the engine bay close up?

Hi, has it got 4" cat back exhaust or 4" at tip of muffler? Will you be interested in a Toyota Hiace super customs " Club Field" model turbo diesel,ABS and Twin air bag, 8 seater all purpose van??

cheer

Alex 0433 878905

Hi, has it got 4" cat back exhaust or 4" at tip of muffler? Will you be interested in a Toyota Hiace super customs " Club Field" model turbo diesel,ABS and Twin air bag, 8 seater all purpose van??

cheer

Alex 0433 878905

Exhaust is a cattback, PMed

Were you first owner in Australia?

I have a R34 N/A 2 Door coupe, 92,xxxkm's.. Interested in a swap+ cash your way?

Im actually the second owner in Australia,

No sorry only after swaps for a cheap daily or van

REALLY nice GTR mate

pity you arent after another import, i got a full done widebody 180sx with 340hp at wheels im trying to swap for a gtr, and yours is a perfect example of what i want

if you do decide you want a import , let me know, or if i sell mine quik ill let you know

nice ride mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...