Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Selling my car to clear up some funds and going overseas

Purchased this about 12 months ago stock, black, clean condition with After market 4inch exhaust.

Its remained stock and untouched during my time of ownership. Interior is immaculate and drives like a dream,

I cannot stress anymore how original and clean this car is, hence, reason why I purchased it.

but it needs to go to a new owner now :P and I rarely get to drive it nowadays.

Car: 1990 Nissan Skyline GTR in Genuine Black

Mileage: 76 XXX km

Details:

- The car is a 1990 R32 GTR (black)

- All Power options, air con, climate control, Power mirrors and windows all functional, Kenwood CD player. Interior is Immaculate

- I purchased it with 70 500km on it. It now sits on 76500km or around there. Rarely driven as i have other cars

- Remote engine start along with a 3 point immobilizer and Alarm has been installed, Vehicle can be started with a distance of 500m away from driver by holding "A Certain button sequence" (very handy for warming up car)

- 4inch Exhaust has been installed, Sounds perfect, Perfect note of the RB26, not overally loud.

- Engine runs as smooth as, with no noises at all

- Gearbox and clutch are still perfect - no noises, no crunching/grinding. Very very smooth shifting feel.

- Its has also had a Full major service (everything replaced All fluids) Im very tedious with my cars, wanted to keep it mechanically A1 110% perfect no questions.

- Car will also come with 18Inch Lenso Muse Alloy rims.

The car is mechanically A1 with no issues what so ever guaranteed. It has never been modified/touched in any other way accept as stated above. This is truely a regretful sale as its very hard to find a original clean R32 GTR today.

Price: Im after $16,299 I am negociable aswell

Open to swaps for a cheap daily or van

Any questions or queries, please dont hestitate to contact me via email or on 0401 195 761.

Pictures:

gtr2.jpg

P7090080.jpg

P7090076.jpg

6724146.jpg

P6270044.jpg

P6270065.jpg

P6270060.jpg

P1020387.jpg

2125261.jpg

P6270045.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302135-syd-fs-1990-r32-gtr-black/
Share on other sites

do u have any pics of the engine bay close up?

Hi, has it got 4" cat back exhaust or 4" at tip of muffler? Will you be interested in a Toyota Hiace super customs " Club Field" model turbo diesel,ABS and Twin air bag, 8 seater all purpose van??

cheer

Alex 0433 878905

Hi, has it got 4" cat back exhaust or 4" at tip of muffler? Will you be interested in a Toyota Hiace super customs " Club Field" model turbo diesel,ABS and Twin air bag, 8 seater all purpose van??

cheer

Alex 0433 878905

Exhaust is a cattback, PMed

Were you first owner in Australia?

I have a R34 N/A 2 Door coupe, 92,xxxkm's.. Interested in a swap+ cash your way?

Im actually the second owner in Australia,

No sorry only after swaps for a cheap daily or van

REALLY nice GTR mate

pity you arent after another import, i got a full done widebody 180sx with 340hp at wheels im trying to swap for a gtr, and yours is a perfect example of what i want

if you do decide you want a import , let me know, or if i sell mine quik ill let you know

nice ride mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...