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Bucket Loads Of Parts For Your R34 Gt-r Bnr34 - Hks Gt-rs Turbos, Cage, Intakes, Exhausts, Nismo Cluster, Hks Intercooler, Oem Diffusers, Coilovers


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All items can be picked up from Hornsby area, Upper North Shore in Sydney. Items can also be couriered or posted interstate. Please inquire for postage costs.

All items are tax inclusive.

I can also be contacted on 0421 141 538 anytime.

Genuine HKS GT-RS Sports Turbine Kit for RB26DETT, brand new set.

$4350 ---SOLD---

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ARC Super Induction box for BNR34 GT-R, brand new but missing 1 small bracket which you need to fabricate

$550

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Tomei Piston Set RB26DETT, 20 thou oversize 86.5mm, brand new (this item will be here in Feb)

$1500 ---SOLD---

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BNR34 GT-R series 1 front seat set, these are ideal for replacement of worn seats as it only includes cushions and rails but does not include the reclining parts. All sections are in as new condition.

$1200

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BNR34 GT-R OEM front diffuser complete set, in excellent condition with no damage or splits.

$1000 ---SOLD---

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BNR34 GT-R OEM front diffuser, in very good condition with no splits, just slight scrape marks

$550 ---SOLD---

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BNR34 GT-R V Spec genuine OEM carbon fibre rear diffuser with fins, no cracks or any damage. (item arriving in Feb)

$2500 ---SOLD---

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HKS Hard Piping Kit for Intercooler, BCNR33 and BNR34 GT-R, brand new kit.

$750 ---SOLD---

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HKS Hard Piping Kit for Intercooler, BCNR33 and BNR34 GT-R, used kit.

$500

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HKS Complete Hard Piping Kit from turbos to intercooler to bov, BCNR33 and BNR34 GT-R, used kit.

$1300 ---SOLD---

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HKS COPY R-Type Intercooler BCNR33 and BNR34 GT-R, used but no damage or leaks, 600x300x103mm

$450

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HKS R-Type Intercooler BCNR33 and BNR34 GT-R, damaged and needs repair, 600x300x103mm

$400

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LOTS MORE ITEMS TO ADD TOMORROW INCLUDING CAT-BACKS, BARS, COILOVERS, WHEEEEEELS AS WELL AS MORE

ARC Super Induction box for BNR34 GT-R

Dont spose this would fit a GTT would it??

Where in hornsby are u.. im interested in getting a profec b off ya!

ARC Super Induction box for BNR34 GT-R

Dont spose this would fit a GTT would it??

Where in hornsby are u.. im interested in getting a profec b off ya!

Sry Mick but are definitely not compatible with each other.

You can call me anytime to arrange a pickup for the Profec B no problems. I'm located near Pacific Hwy and the offramp to the F3

Eugene

eugy, can you source out 18x9.5 +12 and 18x10.5 +12 te37s in bronze? how much will i be looking at?

eugy, can you source out 18x9.5 +12 and 18x10.5 +12 te37s in bronze? how much will i be looking at?

Hey David

I have a set in 9.5+12 coming in March in bronze colour. Actually are you after 9.5 fronts 10.5 rears?

Sweet jesus I've got something very close!

18x9.5+22 fronts and 18x10.5+15 rears in bronze, is that good enough? :P

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hey mate,

wouldnt happen to have a nismo dash for 33 gtr??

thanks

Sry I only have R34 units and last one went to GMan.

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  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
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