Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Since I believe it's my first post of the new year hope you all had a great Christmas/New Years. Did anybody get a DR30 in their stocking? :thumbsup:

Anyway, has anyone ever installed a Microtech MT-4 into an R30 L24E(currently N/A)? Would like to get it in the car and running before I get to the turbo which won't be for about 6 months, but I don't really want to pay $500+ to get it dyno tuned until I get it running decent boost. Is getting it dyno tuned the only real option or is their another way thats a bit cheaper? What's the go for legality/insurance with aftermarket ECUs? A bloke told me the other day you have to get it emmissions certified which is like 5k ;)

Also does anyone have a plug/loom and laptop adapter for an MT-4 Microtech that they would be willing to sell me as I currently only have the ECU unit itself.

Michael

I have a MT-4 aready tuned for turbo, incl loom etc.

Will be keeping for the minute until I have enough cash for a Adaptronic.

The loom can be bought in short form, just wired up yourself.

I am able to get you a spare L24e Loom (one of 3 I have) and get the bits chopped in/out that are needed?

The ECU needs to be taken to a tuner to set the internal settings, like if youre running 4 cyl or 6 cyl, and also you arre restricted in using only the separate hand controller if the 'laptop enabled' sticker isnt on the back. the LT-4 is the factor laptop & hand controller tunable version, but you can send the MT-4 in and get the laptop connectivity. there is a special adaptor required too for about $90

I highly suggest downloading as many guides and manuals as you can find, I have the complete folder here at home, can photocopy it if you like. I have all the software too, cables etc.

do NOT have the connector, and the hand controller arrived BROKEN... fken never buy shit from SA...

As for legality, mate basically anything you do to a car has legal issues, but as some see an ECU upgrade on these old shit analogue Bosch L-Jetronic systems as a GOOD thing, better economy, lower emissions etc.

To tune youreself (on a dyno or on the road) is a big task if you havent got much understanding of what goes on. A wideband 02 meter to check air fuel (A/F) readings is ESSENTIAL.

If you somehow have the laptop enabled unit (and the connector), i can copy the 'turbo' tune details and you will be able to run it from that (i have ran mine for a week on it) , but get the final adjust tune done by the workshop

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
×
×
  • Create New...