Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stays on with slight flickering. The door ajar lights goes off though when I shut the door. If I press the switch near the door stop it doesn't make the light go out either.

Light goes out if I move the switch to the right like it is supposed to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303852-interior-light-not-turning-off/
Share on other sites

ok since it is a bit hard to work out your knowledge of the light from your post, i'm going to be pretty blunt about it and i don't mean this to sound rude or anything, so don't take it that way.

what setting are you putting the light on to get the light to come on? there are 3 settings in the light, on, door and off. generally off will be all the way to one end, door will be in the middle and on will be at the other end. if you are simply moving it from one extreme to the other then you are missing out the door function in the middle which is when the light goes out if you shut the door.

if you are putting it on the right setting and both door and on are making the light stay on regaurdless of where the door is then i'm guessing there is a short in the wiring. i doubt it would be in the door switch as that is making the dash light go off and they generally work off the same circtuit. i would guess that the terminal in the light swith itself is dodgy and shorting it out. pop the cover off the light and have a look. you may even have to unscrew the light from the roof depending on the terminal setup as some have the contact on the rear.

ok since it is a bit hard to work out your knowledge of the light from your post, i'm going to be pretty blunt about it and i don't mean this to sound rude or anything, so don't take it that way.

what setting are you putting the light on to get the light to come on? there are 3 settings in the light, on, door and off. generally off will be all the way to one end, door will be in the middle and on will be at the other end. if you are simply moving it from one extreme to the other then you are missing out the door function in the middle which is when the light goes out if you shut the door.

if you are putting it on the right setting and both door and on are making the light stay on regaurdless of where the door is then i'm guessing there is a short in the wiring. i doubt it would be in the door switch as that is making the dash light go off and they generally work off the same circtuit. i would guess that the terminal in the light swith itself is dodgy and shorting it out. pop the cover off the light and have a look. you may even have to unscrew the light from the roof depending on the terminal setup as some have the contact on the rear.

Oh Hai.

Yes I know about the three positions. I had my switch in the middle (that is door?) position where it has been all the time. If I move it to 'off' it does indeed go off but with the 'door' setting it just stays on regardless of the doors being shut or open.

Does that make sense?

Yep will have look at the light switch, that sounds like the best thing to do given what you say.

Cheers

ok cool. just making sure you realised there was 3 positions, or weren't having a brain failure.

just fo shits and giggles try it on the 'on' location and see if that does anything. may possibly be that the switched was bumped to the middle from the side and that's why it has started staying on.

but it isn't hard to look at the light switch and suss out if something is going on.

It doesnt go off straight away after you shut the door. Takes 4-5 seconds, or, if you turn the key to ignition, or if you lock the car with your alarm remote.

Nah it's staying on forever.

Do you have an alarm installed? They might have linked the boot light up with the interior light, many dodgy installers do that. A cheap install could also have shorted the door sensor wire leaving it on all the time.

If not, unscrew both door switches. They're held in with one large phillips head screw under the cap. If it goes off after unscrewing one or hte other, you know theres a short nearby.

Otherwise it could be the body computer that controls the interior light/delay etc.

Edited by Bozz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...