Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Model:

1989 Model

Colour:

Gunmetal Grey KH2

Changes from stock:

Pods

255 x 35 x 18 Speedy Obsessions

Haltech E11 ECU

3" Catback exhaust

Price:

$18.0k without RWC

$20.0k with RWC

Things I would like fixed/changed:

Needs new clutch (will be looking at getting that done regardless of RWC or not)

Current wheels don't suit the car IMO (I have a full set of gold Enkei NTO3's to replace the Speedy's. The Speedy's are on the car temporarily as they will ultimately go on my Maxima)

AC regassed (not really to fussed about this but can envisaged ppl quering me about this....and along with the ABS :) which doesn't leak btw)

Location:

Brisbane (south)

Serviced/Maintained:

Dan @ ERD

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,

This car has 76k's approx on the clock but is consistent with condition of the car's interior albeit with an Impul speedo

Genuine reason for sale so come and have a look at the car.

Please don't hesitate to contact me via email and/or pm and/or mobile which are [email protected] and/or 0420 453 475 respectively.

There are other things in the car that you might be interested in knowing about that I haven't put up, so contact me and I'll try and answer you.

More pics to come if needed.

Thanks.

post-51212-1263561877_thumb.jpg

post-51212-1263562003_thumb.jpg

post-51212-1263562202_thumb.jpg

post-51212-1263562442_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304103-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

significant price drop for a clean and healthy stockish gtr....

$16500 as is no rwc...you can put whatever clutch you want.

$17000 clutch fixed no rwc

$18000 w/rwc

confident that this car will make you happy :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304103-r32-gtr/#findComment-5048860
Share on other sites

for those wondering.

I still drive it to work and other places now and then.

It just starting to slip once I take it past about 4k rpm.

have bought clutch for it...just need for you to install (= more time + money).

that's why i was willing to go cheaper if you want to drive it away now.

anyway if you're just short of cash but have a swap item let me know what you have.

surfboards, jetskis, boat, etc preferably not another car but will consider it.

anything of significance + cash my way :(

Paul

Edited by jaxt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304103-r32-gtr/#findComment-5053367
Share on other sites

yes thanks s14 (tm :)) and Arkhaeon...hope that clears that up for you sneezy.

just sifting through a couple of offers from over the weekend...so put yours in guys...interest is finally gathering momentum...

will consider offers in the price range of 14-15.5k....

Edited by jaxt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304103-r32-gtr/#findComment-5076602
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...