Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You mean most of the time with the factory piping you will not have the issue.

Hearing it vs actually having it - are distinctly different in my opinion :P

It's well known that hard piping kits can cause the comp surge (using 2530's/garrett -5s) as the factory ribbed piping actually flexes a bit which can stop the problem from occuring at all.

There is lots to be said for some OEM stuff - and the intake piping is one of those such items.

And yes i understand factory piping doesnt look good etc, but it most certainly serves a clear purpose.

Yes Ash, and another bad thing about aftermarket piping is that it is one extra thing that the cops will pick on you for.

mmmmm elaorate...............

I would but it would point out my utter stupudity (see I'm not afraid to tell the world I f^$ked up)

Oh well I will then

Built motor, -5's, tuned by a mob which I thought new what they were doing, ingnored the compression surge (which the tuner pointed out as well), ignored the PFC flashing the exhaust light.....bang, crack on bore 5.

No I am NOT saying that compression surge was THE casue of the problem, but I am sure it did not help things overall.

Lets get back on topic now. ;)

Hang on... compressor surge was the reason given for your motor splitting a bore?

:P

You said it did not help things... it had nothing to do with you splitting a bore.

That was poor motor assembly, nothing more. Comp surge had zero to do with it, i don't even know why you'd mention it in the same sentence.

You said it did not help things... it had nothing to do with you splitting a bore.

That was poor motor assembly, nothing more. Comp surge had zero to do with it, i don't even know why you'd mention it in the same sentence.

Same sentence or not, I was merely replying to a request from the topic starter to elaborate.

It was in the same sentence but it was not a cause of the motor failing. It was merely just another separate issue that I did not bother to fix.

Is that more accurate? Is everyone happy now? :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...