Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeay! :)

picked him up from ESP today and am fairly happy, still got a few issues to sort but thats cars.

194.8@5psi

224@9psi

for some reason the clutch was slipping andit had a boost leak which resulted in the cooler pipes blowing off a couple of times and next time Glen said he will spank me if bring tyres that have been sitting in the sun for 10 years...

Very happy with ESP (even though they hate my 31 now) i cant recommend them enough.

now will someone book a track day for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305876-grumblebee-is-alive/
Share on other sites

194.8@5psi

224@9psi

You forgot to mention the mountain of torque that it makes James... Thats why the clutch was slipping.

My guess for the final figure (when all the bugs are ironed out) is:

253rwkw @ 14.4psi (1 Bar).

700nm torque

P.S. It sounds like a chainsaw on steroids! :P

RB30 w/ RB25 head.

great numbers mate!

my car makes about the same number at those boost levels, but in HP! hahah

thanks :thumbsup:

mirandas little video of me putting it away after it got dropped off.

mirandas little video of me putting it away after it got dropped off.

To quote Miranda in that video - "hehe that's cool".

It looks hardcore when it's rolling (must be the sick black on yellow paint job) :worship:

P.S. It sounds like its going to need a large muffler before it goes out to the hillclimb or they'll kick you off for being too loud :(

Quick question ... who built your RB30DE setup ?

im looking to build an RB30DE (non turbo) in future and was after a bit of knowlege on the build as I would like to build the motor myself but need to know about the machining of the block and head etc...

timing belt tensioners , timing belt , oil pump etc...

the guy/workshop who put it together is in Adelaide, you dont want hes name, did a shit house job... :P

this guide is pretty comprehensive though, its in the first post.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ion-t15420.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...