Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Rear adjustable camber arms for my old skyline. Never put them in and sold the car.

Item Condition: Brand spanking new

Rego(if applicable): Ummmm Nope

Location: karama Darwin but will ship anywhere.

Website: This one

Reason for Selling: no longer have the car. So i dont need them

Price: $ 150.00 ono

Payment Conditions: Cash

Extra Info: They are brand new and shiny with purty blue anodisation and um adjustable stuffs on them. Can be fitted for you at an additional cost. Can also be aligned at my work for you for a further additional cost

Contact Details: PM and ask for phone number

Pictures: Can get for you tonight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306100-fs-adjustable-rear-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

What kind of Skyline are they for? R32/33/34 or various?

Also, no pics as you said?

Edited by -Jimmy-
still for sale how much deliverd to melbourne

Yeah still for sale 150 delivered to melbourne Let me know asap as there are others wanting them whoever gets in with cash first.

As for Brand i have no idea i think they are drift shop Aus brand not sure. I brought them around a year ago and cant remember as i brought them for 180 off a guy cos he could not be stuffed fitting them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...