Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, thought i must pass this on for those who arent on NS

Just received an interesting email through the BMW club E-mail subscription: Hayabusa Police bikes.

For those of you that don't know, a Hayabusa is a 300+ km/hr 1300cc Suzuki motorbike.

---------- Forwarded message ---------

Beware out there guys

Just had word from a a mate who seen & spoken to them in person

2 are white Gen 2 unsure of colour of other 2

have very small police markings on windscreen & rear hump.

fully decked out with all the gear to catch us.

Digital equipment built into the bike to let them just park & aim

bike in your direction to detect speeding( no need for hand held

radar).

Video gear on board to follow you with.

Has a fold up rear flashing light

They were up Mt Glorious & will be working any where in the northern

area from Caboolture around.

link

just thought id give the heads up :)

and yeeeeh fml this is gay :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306180-yo-undercover-bikes/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

well your an idiot..

and on topic.. i've seen a red hayabusa recently.. and frequently.. thought it unusual as i rarely ever see 1.. however prob just some guys new toy and is finding excuses to get more milk

YTF would they need a Hayabusa honestly! is that really necessary to give cops a bike that goes that fast they're just gonna kill themselves trying to catch the speeders that really dont want to be caught. it looks like a size of a small boat probably handles like one to. just take a few sharp corners and hide lol haha

I call horseshit. Very few bikes will out run a set up car on the twistys. Straight line is an entirely different kettle of fish. The "busa's" are good for about 300 plus kph with acceleration from hell.

Dont sweat it, Its only a temporary thing. I remember before most of you were born when bike cops were all the rage. As the pediatric ward of the local hospitals filled up with cop motorcyclists they began to dissapear till the only time you saw them were at official functions doing escort duty.

The current cash scrapped government is looking to garner as much revenue as they possibly can for the least amount of outlay.

A fat sports bike costs way less to put on the road than a car so they'll go that way till enough of them get hurt that compo claims start to outweigh the returns.

Can they ride, Bet your sweet arse they can, These guys live on their machines day in and day out. They get pretty damn good at it.

I call horseshit. Very few bikes will out run a set up car on the twistys. Straight line is an entirely different kettle of fish. The "busa's" are good for about 300 plus kph with acceleration from hell.

Dont sweat it, Its only a temporary thing. I remember before most of you were born when bike cops were all the rage. As the pediatric ward of the local hospitals filled up with cop motorcyclists they began to dissapear till the only time you saw them were at official functions doing escort duty.

The current cash scrapped government is looking to garner as much revenue as they possibly can for the least amount of outlay.

A fat sports bike costs way less to put on the road than a car so they'll go that way till enough of them get hurt that compo claims start to outweigh the returns.

Can they ride, Bet your sweet arse they can, These guys live on their machines day in and day out. They get pretty damn good at it.

Half the braking distance and twice the acceleration I don't see a situation were you wouldn't get caught running from the cops if they're on a bike.

rode a shit bike?

Over a standard family car maybe maybe they brake better but not a modified vehicle with tricked out suspension and brakes.

And they have about 1/3 the cornering speed. they have no f**king rubber on the road to speak of. Go do some research.

The best super bike times cant get within a bulls roar of car times on a race track, even with their obvious power to weight advantage on the straights.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...