Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey every

i have my engineering appointment soon and im a bit worried as my clutch fan does not have a shroud around it as i have an aftermarket radiator. However i do have two electric thermo fans that i brought new a while back and been meaning to install. I've seen people use mounting shrouds if that's what you would call them so that the thermo fans have an gap between the radiator itself.

here is a picture so it explains it better.. does any one know where i can buy something like this locally.

post-44649-1265004036_thumb.jpg

thanks guys, niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306376-thermo-fan-shrouds/
Share on other sites

If you are keeping your stock engine fan then the thermos can go on the front of the radiator with no shroud. If you need a shroud for the engine fan then hit up some wreckers.

If you aren't keeping the stock engine fan, then the thermos go on the back side of the radiator but you won't find an off the shelf shroud to fit our radiators and those fans (if you do, let me know!).

I have heard that VG30 thermo setups and AU Falcon setups both fit and work with minimal effort.

Easiest way is to make shrouds yourself - or go and see any shop that does custom work

Or, see KYP, etc to get a new (second hand) shroud for the clutch fan

Or, if you only need it for a little while, I could probably let you borrow mine (factory one)

hey buddy

thanks for that, i did what you said at the start, just made my own shroud looks good.. went to the engineering place they didn't say anything about it being a problem.

thanks, niran

  • 2 weeks later...

No, no pics.

Pretty straight forward though

use the factory shroud as a guide, or just off the rad dimensions, make up a frame from light ply, pine or Mdf

then cut same for the thermos

tack some speaker cloth to the rad frame and position the thermo fan templates - use a brick or pavers (or similar) to space the thermo frame up from the rad frame and then stretch and tack the cloth in place (not too tight)

then just lay several layers of fibre glass resin over the top, and you are done

Edited by Steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...