Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

actually i had a guy do it for me, but there was nothing difficult about it. Just pull out the rectangular covers on the side, unscrew the first bolts you see inside and things just slide off so you can pull things apart from the inside (steering wheel, airbag harness etc). The airbag itself needs to be taken out slowly that's all.

I know I've been vague, sorry...I remember watching the guy do it, n i thought, I could've done that bit myself. The hard part is getting all the other crap out from inside, and reaching the bolt that the boss kit will eventually go onto.

hmmm make sure you pull the plastic rectangular cover off from underneath the steering wheel. Then undo the plug that you see under there, that will disconnect the airbag.

remove 2 side screws as covered by Nrage33, you will need a tamperproof T50 driver. If you can't get a tamperproof, use a screwdriver to break the "point" out of each of the bolts then use a normal T50. Everything will slide out then...

butthead , before u do it find the airbag fuse and take it out , if u cant find that disconect the battery and take care when handling the air bag always hold it away from ur head .

As wrxhoon said,,,,either remove the fuse or disconnected the battery. I would have you dis-connect the battery myself. After that you can do what you like with it. It will not explode without voltage and thats a FACT. It's an electronic exploding device that is as lame as with no voltage. You will have to get someone that knows Nissan's to reset the light after you re-install it though.

Neil.

You will have to get someone that knows Nissan's to reset the light after you re-install it though.

So I can't just disconnect battery, remove standard nissan airbag steering wheel, replace with a different standard nissan airbag wheel (in much better condition) and plug the battery back in to find everything 100% ?

butthead ,

i'm not sure if u have to reset the airbag light after u reistall it as i havent removed one in a skyline before . i have done it in other cars though and it works without reseting it .neil have ever had a skyline wheel removed? ( airbag ).

always be very carefull with airbags even if they are disconected , u dont want to loose u r head .

I just took the 3 plastic covers off my wheel to take a closer look (woulda took some pics but parents borrowed my camera for the nite).

For the last 9-12mths my wheel makes a clunk sound everytime I turn it about 90-180 deg and then clunk again when I turn it back. I'm guessing something inside is loose and is just rolling around but after taking the covers off and looking inside I can't see anything that isn't joined to another part that could be loose. Also now over the last week it sounds like a spring or something is loose along with the clunk clunk sound and it sounds like the wheel is gonna fall to pieces in my hands 1 day when driving. I can get a 2nd hand good condition wheel and hopefully just straight swap it but if my current wheel just needs a bolt tightened etc then i'd much rather just tightened the bolt and get another 6mths out of the wheel (if the leather will hold up that long). Anyone got any ideas ?

From what I can see (with a torch) their is just 2 weird shaped bolts on either side and then I guess the wheel just slides off (??). Underneath I can see 2 different plugs. It looks like 1 is a cable plugging into a socket and the other is just to cables plugged directly into each other.

Which 1 of these 2 needs to be unplugged to de-activate the airbag?

benm:

have u ever taken a steering wheel out before ? once u take out the cover ( regardless were it has an airbag or not ) u have to undo the nut ( usualy around 19 - 21 mm) then u need a gear puller to pull it off ( its tapered so it will be very tight ) .when u reinstall it u have to put it in the same position as it was before otherwise when u go in a straight line the wheel will not be in centre position .this is the best way to do it . put the wheel in centre pos and the front wheels pointing straight then take the wheel off ,make sure u dont turn the shaft when taking the wheel off or while its off when u r ready to put it back u put it cenre pos again , put the nut on take it for a drive if its one tooth out pull out and turn one tooth .

when u take the cover off ( with the airbag )u'll see the wires u have to undo , airbag wires are usualy yellow .

make sure u take the fuse off or disconect the battery .

funkymonkey , yes ur right but remember when u r driving u r head is far away from the airbag and u can get a broken nose but thats the price u have to pay so u dont get seriously hurt or even die .

Just spoke to CRD in Silverwater and they told me to remove my standard nissan airbag wheel and replace it with a good condition standard nissan airbag wheel i will need a boss kit worth $150 and thats all they can supply (It's illegal for them to change airbag wheels).

I'm guessing Nissan will be the only workshop that can replace my wheel and if thats the case it will be cheaper for me to buy an aftermarket Momo wheel + Boss kit (illegal modification) and have that fitted than to just put another Nissan airbag wheel on.

Not happy Jan !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...