Jump to content
SAU Community

urgent help! lights out..

_turtle_

By _turtle_,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
Posted

help guys, the front lites of the cars not working. for a while now, the rite side has been playing up, wen i go over train tracks or something sometimes it would go out, and then come back again some other time. so i figured because it comes back, it can't be the bulb going, so its prolly a lose wire or something.

but tonite, i went over the train tracks and both lites went out!! basically i was only driving with the dim lites and couldn't see shiat so i had to use high beam wen there were no cars and drive back home.

now my question is, is it probably a fuse?? if so which one is it? i dont know which one to change. i remember seeing a diagram somewhere showing which fuse is for what. but i can't seem to find it. can anyone point me in the right direction?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3070-urgent-help-lights-out/
Share on other sites
Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted

If your headlights are dim, the voltage must be dropped somewhere else. Where the voltage is being dropped will be getting VERY hot. Lift the bonnet, using the stub of a big screwdriver, tap everything that looks electrical related. If it doesn't solve your problem, inside the car, bash the steering column when the lights are on (naturally take the trim off first) and see if it corrects the problem.

Sniff around for where the heat is coming from, noses are great for finding minute sources of heat.

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the help guys. don't think its the fuse, because i swapped the 15A fuse with the one next to it (another 15A for the ciggy lighter) and still didn't work. so it mite be the bulbs, but how do i take them out? i'm sorta a bit dumb dumbs with these kinda things. didn't get back till it was dark today, so i'll take a look at them tomorrow and try work out how to take the globe out. already kinda fiddled around with the wires leading in to them, no luck.

i mite just goto autobarn doncaster, they're very helpful :)

Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by inark

sounds like it could also be a relay issue...

Could be a relay as much as it could be absolutely anything else to do with the lighting system.

If it's a relay, then it will be bloody hot. See, anything that drops a few volts at high current will dissipate an enormous amount of heat. It simply could be absolutely ANYTHING to do with the headlights. Could even be the plugs that connect the bulbs to the wiring.

If you want to work it out for yourself, perhaps go and re-read my above post and try a bit of hunting around rather than asking people to find a needle in a haystack that we can't even see.

If you are a tiny bit more electrically inclined and know how to follow a wire, perhaps you could use a multimeter and see where the voltage is being dropped. But this is just wasting time, finding the source of the voltage drop is SO much easier by finding out what part is hot.

_turtle_ Proficient

_turtle_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

problem solved! the wires on one of the lites ended up being loose. the bulb on the other lite was gone. now i realise that the fuse for these fings are at the back in the boot next to the battery. and i figured out how easy it is to change the globe hehe. if anyone wants to know the globe is a H1 12V 55W P14.5s. Part No. 48320BL. $6.99 at autobarn.

thanks for everyones help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
    • Duncan
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Duncan · Posted

      This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...