Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just wondering if anyone knows what sort of price i'd be looking at JUST to spray an engine bay? Nothing fancy, not gloss, prob just a black

i'm guessing most of it's in the labour of talking all the shit out?

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307012-rough-cost-to-spray-an-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

you can do it a number of ways; either just buy a few spray cans, fairly cheap way, or if you have a compressor/spray gun you can buy a litre or so of black acrylic or 2 pack and spray it, should be able to do it for less than 100 or so. Strip as much as you can out of the bay so you can easily get everywhere,, mask up good style so you dont get overspray on everything......

but you're going for like a real pro build tho aren't you?

i just want to go black, and not even gloss is fine for me.

i guess the next question is how much $$ labour are we talking about in removing everything and putting it back in?

I have done it a few times. Both with colour changes with leaving the engine in

I just done my stagea from silver to ford breeze 2 pac. You can get to most places, once reassembled you have to look fairly hard. Hardest spot is down the side of the rails. Just spray some black from below if needed

Remove as much as possible around the engine, radiator, abs, air intake, leave fuse box attached and put in a pastic bag and tape it up. Leave a/c cond in

Probably a good days work to strip and rub down. Use cheap green washing up scotch pad and home brand jif to rub it back. removes all grease etc.

Mask up and paint another day. Let dry and reassembly.

If you get some extra hands, you could probably strip, rub back and paint in one day, then reassemly the next. That do it in one weekend

You will have to mask CARFULLY the pink vin sticker. Dotars will not give you another one if you pull it off

post-14923-1265414377_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1265414504_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
    • Welcome Adam. Car looks great!
    • "With a 1.5-WAY, the LSD is effective only during acceleration."
    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
×
×
  • Create New...