Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just wondering if anyone knows what sort of price i'd be looking at JUST to spray an engine bay? Nothing fancy, not gloss, prob just a black

i'm guessing most of it's in the labour of talking all the shit out?

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307012-rough-cost-to-spray-an-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

you can do it a number of ways; either just buy a few spray cans, fairly cheap way, or if you have a compressor/spray gun you can buy a litre or so of black acrylic or 2 pack and spray it, should be able to do it for less than 100 or so. Strip as much as you can out of the bay so you can easily get everywhere,, mask up good style so you dont get overspray on everything......

but you're going for like a real pro build tho aren't you?

i just want to go black, and not even gloss is fine for me.

i guess the next question is how much $$ labour are we talking about in removing everything and putting it back in?

I have done it a few times. Both with colour changes with leaving the engine in

I just done my stagea from silver to ford breeze 2 pac. You can get to most places, once reassembled you have to look fairly hard. Hardest spot is down the side of the rails. Just spray some black from below if needed

Remove as much as possible around the engine, radiator, abs, air intake, leave fuse box attached and put in a pastic bag and tape it up. Leave a/c cond in

Probably a good days work to strip and rub down. Use cheap green washing up scotch pad and home brand jif to rub it back. removes all grease etc.

Mask up and paint another day. Let dry and reassembly.

If you get some extra hands, you could probably strip, rub back and paint in one day, then reassemly the next. That do it in one weekend

You will have to mask CARFULLY the pink vin sticker. Dotars will not give you another one if you pull it off

post-14923-1265414377_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1265414504_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...