Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im from the NA section, and my DE shat itself the other day and im going to chuck in a turbo.

Questions are;

- Things needed;

- Engine

- Turbo

- dump

- exhaust (manifold etc).

- Intake piping etc and intercooler.

- Turbo engine wiring loom (i assume?)

- Turbo dash

- turbo ECU

is there anything else im missing?

ALSO is it possible to fit a RB20det into a R33 up against the 33 5-spd manual? i can get a cheap 20det which is in VG condition and money is scarce so getting this engine might be the best option..

so can it be done? does it mount up? will the engine loom integrate? can i use a 33 dash?

Thanks for your help guys. i want to get this car back on the road, and when i start the swap i'll make a thread following the progress.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307828-dropping-in-new-engine/
Share on other sites

@NYTSKY

I thought that, but at roughly $4k for a front cut, i can get nearly everything i need for $1500 with a good searching of the For Sale forum, like i was saying, money is a bit tight and i need the car back on the road asap (old engine is gone).

Thanks for the idea though

It's going to cost $1500 just for a good condition RB25 + loom at the very least.

You expecting the rest for free or something?

There is no way you are going to get a RB25DET in, running, with the full cooler setup, exhaust etc etc for $1500 mate.

Front cut is the easiest way to go, and overall cheapest.

Then sell off the parts you don't need. Struts, panels, A/C components, brakes etc.

Fair, i might be a bit idealist with $1500, i've seen decent rb25's for $1000 .. so hoping for some good deals, get the exhaust and intake piece all stock, but your right, i'm gonna be looking at a bit more.

Though in terms of bits and pieces, is that all i need? or is there something im missing?..

Also, any thoughts on the RB20 install? straight bolt on the gearbox? is that right?

Hassles with installing it into a R33?

Thanks guys

Hey mate,

Get a 25det - I have obtained a bare engine for cheep and am slowly building it up, a lot of your NA gear is compatible (CAS, AFM, alternator etc) so that will save you some money. It's not that expensive, I have gone for a lot of aftermarket bits and that is the reason why I'm down a bit of money, however if you want everything stock your looking at $2000 (DIY).

agreed, between you (mr massive) and nismoid, $2000 is a pretty good guesstimate with getting good prices on all parts.. but i am having trouble sourcing them all, and i need the car quick.

And the rb20 isnt such a bad engine, mate has a r32 gtst and it goes pretty good, bit more powerful then then rb25de... not as torquey i'll admit but, for the cost factor, i can get the rb20det, including turbo and manifold for $500 (good condition motor, not stuffed) off a friend.

So thats why im considering this option, im not fussed with getting the best spec'ed engine. So after that i'd need engine loom for rb20det, ecu, intercooler and piping ofcourse, exhuast from manifold back. and thats it right?

Would the R33 turbo dash work with the rb20det anyone? and is there any complications i dont know of?

Thanks everyone again

UPDATE: alright, i've sourced a good S2 RB25DET, they've included;

- intake manifold

- exhaust manifold

- turbo

- loom

- ecu

- exhaust

- intercooler and piping

Questions;

- Any bits im missing? anything you guys can think of?

- Do i need the Turbo dash? or will it plug up ok and i just wont have the Boost Gauge?

- On my car i dont have the Aux thermo fan, do i need it on the turbo motor?

- Can i use my DE AFM and Airbox or do i need DET units?

- Does the fuel pump need changing?

Any comments you guys have are welcome, everything said so far has helped and is much appreciated... ill be getting the motor in 2-3 weeks, picking it up from Sydney.

I'll be re-freshing the motor with gaskets and the likes, and getting the head cleaned up before i chuck it on the car... so i'll do a little write up of refreshing the motor, the head work done and the install.

Thanks again to everyone

Edited by darkrams69

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...