Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just ordered some Cusco upper A-arms and am about to order the rears. Right now with stock arms and lowered the camber is this:

FR 2.0 degrees

FL 2.3 Degrees

Both Rear 3.0 Degrees

What should I adjust it to?

I am running GTR sways and Bilstein stock style struts. I was thinking stock specs for spirited street driving. Occasional touge with no autocross.

Sorry if this has been addressed before as I suck at searching this forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309013-camber-settings-for-an-awd-r34/
Share on other sites

for street and light track use 2-2.5 sounds about right. is it at the ride height you are after?

for more specific ideas we need to know what springs, shocks, sway bars, tyres, car weight and specific use of the car.

but more than 2.5o for street use will start to chew out tyres too quickly.

for more specific ideas we need to know what springs, shocks, sway bars, tyres, car weight and specific use of the car.

I am running Nismo springs and Bilstein struts. Not sure of the rates, but they seem to be just a little stiffer than stock. I just got them to lower the car. As far as sway bars, they are stock R34 GTR bars front and rear. Tires are normal off the shelf tires, nothing too agressive. Car weighs a little less than an R34 GTR. The use is street driving with occasional touge. As I am typing this, I think stock specs for the GTR might do nicely. What are they?

given what you have and how you are using it, I don't think you should change the front camber at all. 2-2.5o is the most you would want for a mostly street driven car, especially on standard road tyres.

3o at the rear is way too much, you should get adjustable bushes for the rear and bring it back to 1.5o, 2 at the most.

If you want to spend some money on suspension (great idea), buy a set of nice, hard sway bars. You'll love the difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...