Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

The next track day is just over 3 weeks away. It?s time to get booked in and secure your spot. Driver training will be available with beginner sessions in the morning and experienced in the afternoon.

WRS Time Attack Track Day . Thursday March 18 . Round 2 Clubman Track

Morning Session: Arrive 7:15am.. Sprint Track / Clubman Track

Lunch Time: National Track (1 Session. First drivers paid in full can book a limited spot)

Afternoon Session: Arrive 12:00pm. Sprint Track / Clubman Track

Photography: Don?t forget to check the photography page on the website for deals. Menu Events->Photography

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309317-time-attack-thursday-march-18/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Keen to get along but not sure how I can book. Website says details in email

The details of how to book and the cost of a particular event will be outlined in the information email sent out before the event.

but I get no emails from the time attack site Paul!

Anyone able to forward the booking contact/info?

[email protected]

Just shoot him an email and let him know which session/s i.e morning/afternoon you want to come

to. He works full time aswell but he will get back to you

Alternatively, send me your email adress via Pm and i will forward you through latest timeattack email

with all the details.

Be good to see a few more 35's out there..

Edited by Duncan1
thanks for that. Car will do well, not sure about the driver though.

will send pm as have not yet received reply

hahaha. I know that feeling!

Just dont come up on Michelin slicks and make us all look silly!

Hopefully yours is JDM and still has the speed limiter!!! :)

Hey Guys,

Sorry I have not checked the forums in a few days. Thanks for the email Mark, now we have it all sorted. Ben is right, more R35's to the track will be very cool.

There is still room at the day AM and PM for anyone who whats to make a late entry. I have an experienced driver training spot still free in the afternoon as well.

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...