Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Im selling my Apexi AFC NEO as its no longer needed.

I was running it on my old RB20 with upgraded turbo and it never skipped a beat.

some info about the afc NEO taken from apexi-usa

The AFC-neo is a multifunctional sub-computer that allows the tuner to fine-tune air-fuel ratios, calculate MAF/MAP transfer functions, control VTEC or other solenoids, address stall issues associated with open-air blow off valves, and monitor key ECU data.

Changes in air-fuel ratio are achieved by correcting the airflow sensor signal or pressure sensor signal at 16 different RPM points, and at high and low throttle positions, all of which can be moved according to the customers needs. By changing this input signal, the tuner can alter the injector pulse width as calculated by the ECU. 

The AFC NEO is unique in the sense that it has a built in MAF/MAP transfer function, which is necessary when the tuner swaps MAF/MAP sensors from one vehicle application to another. By setting the sensor IN and OUT to the appropriate sensor numbers, the AFC NEO can act as a translator/emulator unit, eliminating the need for costly sensor or ECU reprogramming. 

The unit also has a VTEC solenoid control function that allows the tuner to change the VTEC engagement/disengagement point on Honda VTEC systems (not compatible with iVTEC systems). The VTEC solenoid control and also be used to control other types of solenoids as used in nitrous-oxide and water/methanol injection systems. 

On MAF applications with open-air blowoff valves, there is a deceleration air correction feature that allows the tuner to compensate for the over-rich condition that occurs at throttle-off. By adjusting the MAF signal at throttle-off condition, the tuner can reduce the amount of fuel injected and prevent stalling.

In monitor mode, the driver can monitor digital engine RPM, throttle position, battery voltage, airflow sensor capacity usage, pressure sensor data, Karman frequency, MAF/MAP/Karman correction factor, and solenoid on/off status.

The AFC NEO is a universal unit that can be used on a wide range of cars and trucks that have an air metering system that uses a VAF, MAF or MAP sensors operating within the 0-5 volt range, as well as applications using Karman sensors. There are some unique applications that do not allow for the proper functioning of the AFC NEO. If you are not sure, please contact Apex for assistance.

L_6145.jpg

I can get actual picture of the item if required but this is exactly what it looks like.

Mint condition & still has plastic the protective cover over the screen.

$400

Location Gold Coast, QLD

Will post at buyers expense.

Call Alex on 0403 557 352

Edited by Massignani
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309514-apexi-afc-neo/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...