Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guy's,

Well im all new to this so don't really know what to write. All i can say is im selling my R33 that i've had for nearly 2 years now. Not sure what kind of info you guys want to know, im a chick and really don't know too much lol Number plate EVL is no longer present. As you may see in the pictures there are a few cracks in the front bumper and indicators need to be fixed up which i plan to get done before selling, but if you wish to buy it the way it is, please give an offer. If you have any questions feel free to ask and im sure i can get those answers for you :D

Miss*K

post-71187-1267076457_thumb.jpg

post-71187-1267076405_thumb.jpg

post-71187-1267077682_thumb.jpg

post-71187-1267077704_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309673-r33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

check the pics, that will explain the transmission question :P

Hey guy's,

My mate is going to have a look under the bonnet to see if he can see anything. :ninja: i do know it's had a tune thing. Now sure what you call it lol. Transmission is 5 speed manual. :) and hoping to get 15 for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309673-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5108703
Share on other sites

Hey Guy's,

Well i took the cae in for a squizz and this is what was found.....

Splitfire Coil Packs

Aftermarket Alloy Radiator

Pd filter

Oil Catch Can

Blitz Bov

3" Dump Pipe

Sports Exhaust

Apexi ECU

Front Mount Intercooler

Front Stru Brace

KKR 430 Turbo

Teins Suspension (Adjustable Rear and Front)

Race Seats

Evo Steering Wheel

Autometer Boost Gage

Optima battery

Xplode Speakers In Rear

Pioneer HeadUnit

18"Advanti Racing Wheels

GTR Wing

Trust Front Bar

KM-158 XXX

Hope that's given you's a fair idea. :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309673-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5111411
Share on other sites

Hey Guy's,

Well i took the cae in for a squizz and this is what was found.....

Splitfire Coil Packs

Aftermarket Alloy Radiator

Pd filter

Oil Catch Can

Blitz Bov

3" Dump Pipe

Sports Exhaust

Apexi ECU

Front Mount Intercooler

Front Stru Brace

KKR 430 Turbo

Teins Suspension (Adjustable Rear and Front)

Race Seats

Evo Steering Wheel

Autometer Boost Gage

Optima battery

Xplode Speakers In Rear

Pioneer HeadUnit

18"Advanti Racing Wheels

GTR Wing

Trust Front Bar

KM-158 XXX

Hope that's given you's a fair idea. :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309673-r33-for-sale/#findComment-5111413
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...