Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, when ur talkin about the sway bars is it the bars underneith the car or is it the one in the engine(strut??) anyways im lookin at pickin one up (whiteline adj for 190) and would like to know which of the two would be better to upgrade, the one under the car or in the enginebay and the front or the rear. im guessing the fronts as its rwd.

as for the aftermarket hicas bar...rezz as a "Attain - HICAS Cancel Rod" goin for $166 bucks accordin to the calculator...hehe. dunno if it comes with the electronic bypass thingy for the 33 though.

Go for the swaybar (under the car) first if you want less body roll. the strut brace won't make much different for body roll, it will only increase chasis rigidity for high speed cornering, but most of the time during general driving you won't feel the difference with or without the strut brace.

Better to upgrade both front & rear swaybars, it will allow u to tune understeer & oversteer characteristic of your car. In theory if u have stiffer rear swaybar and softer front (or the other way around), ur chasis could twist during hard cornering because of different body roll front & rear... I would imagine it wouldn't be too nice

No worries Sydneykid. The JMS one for $195 isn't listed as being suited for R33's. I found that K's Online Garage (as (B1) MR_fanny mentioned) has the cheapest at $166 + postage. Gotta find out from Rezz if SAU members get a discount.

thanks rs73....i was thinkin of the front whiteline adjustables and the rear "dori dori" swaybar on K'sgarage. what do u guys think of this combo?? come to think of it if i get the whiteline rear adj then all i need to do is set it stiffest when needed??....hmmm also is it fairly easy to adjust the swaybars?? would i need a hoist? and does it put my wheels out of alignment everytime u adjust it??

Hi B1, to adjust the stabiliser bars I jack up the rear of the car (under the diff) and remove the wheels. Undo 1 bolt each side on the stabiliser bar adjuster. Move the link the number of holes you want, and replace the bolt. Simple, hardest part is jacking the car up.

Adjusting stabiliser bars has nothing to do with wheel alignment. So no, you don't have to get it aligned every time you adjust the bars.

Hope that helps

  • 1 month later...

It looks good!!

I didn't put it on myself, Centerline Suspension in Thomastown did it for me, but from your pics it looks right.

The adjustible caster rod bush on the front does come in the bushes only. You still use your standard caster rod arm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...