Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I was looking in the garage the today and realised how many parts I have accumulated which I will never use again.... time for a clean up!!

Having owned just about every import under the sun over the past 8 years, means there's a lot of random parts available..

Here's the list, I'll be taking photos in the morning:

Nissan Parts:

*Standard R33 Gtst Catback Exhaust $80

*Standard R33 Gtst Side mount intercooler $50

*Standard R34 GTT Sedan Catback Exhaust $80

*R33 Gtst Series 1 Grille $10

*R33 Gtst Dual Pillar Gauge Holder including HKS Boost Gauge, HKS Water temp Gauge $100

*RB 25 Spark Plug Cover $10

*R33 Gtst BN Sports Side Skirts, Rear Bar (NEW) $250

*TRW 5 Point Racing Harness $50

*R32 ZCAS Front Pads (New) $80

*GT Wing $50

*R33 GTR Head complete with springs, valves, standard cams and standard cam gears (used, slight work required) $500 for the lot

*R33 GTR Crank (Looks ok, needs to be crack tested) $300

*R33 GTR Block (Needs Work) $50

*R33 GTR Rods, with pistons, including pins, rings, bearings (Have 11 sets to choose from) $200 for the lot

*R33 GTR Nismo Sports Clutch/flywheel (Single) $200

*R33 GTR Turbos x2 With standard dumps (Very good condition) $250

*Cefiro Series 1 Tail-lights, complete set $80

*180sx Front Fenders Left/Right (Red Colour) $150

*S15 Autech Spoiler (Pearl Colour) $20

*S15 Cluster (Auto) $20

Toyota:

*Standard Aristo Catback Exhaust $80

* JDM Number Plate Holder $10

There's probably more stuff, but thats all I can remember at this point.

Its all in Adelaide, pickup welcome, also willing to post interstate at buyers expense.

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

*R33 GTR Crank (Looks ok, needs to be crack tested) $300

*R33 GTR Rods, with pistons, including pins, rings, bearings (Have 11 sets to choose from) $200 for the lot

Much Want - I'll PM you when i get time, about to head off to work.

*R33 Gtst Dual Pillar Gauge Holder including HKS Boost Gauge, HKS Water temp Gauge $100

photos and price to 3052?

not sure on what postage would be?

$20? i'll find out

post-20233-1267659803_thumb.jpg

hi mate looking for a set of r33 2door side skirts would you sell them minus the rear bar, regards adam

might do.. but i think the whole set is being picked up tonight

keep you posted.

**Also RB25 Spark plug cover sold

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...