Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been looking through lots of pages lately for a better turbo for my RB20. I have figured anything newer is better than what I have but why are series 2 r33 turbos better than series 1, and i am guessing r34 turbos are better since they are similar to r33 series 2. Has it got something to do with the nylon wheel? Does it make it easier to spool faster compared to steel? And why do some turbos have twin blade and some single. I saw someone say it doesnt help either way. I was just wanting other peoples opinons or knowledge on why newer ones are better and the theory behind it, so... discuss

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310710-r34-r33-s2-turbos-better-why/
Share on other sites

I am not sure about the real tech stuff on the differences. I just know the R34 turbo has a much bigger exhaust housing (its called OP6). The exhaust side of the turbo is the restriction on these cars, so the larger exhaust housing is a better solution.

very late model r33's also come with OP6 rear housing, it just makes more top end power, but makes boost come on a lil later.

And the nylon wheel gives better boost response, which is used in R33 II and r34, the twin alloy blade is in series I.

Just looked at your avatar,i use both 34 and 33 sII on my rb20's and i prefer the 33 comes on much quiker, i dont like the OP6 on them.

Only get the Op6 if your getting Hypergear to do one of its big highflows for max rwkw.

Edited by PROXIMITY

R34 Turbo's have a larger rear housing. OP6 will signify the larger housing and thus a R34 item.

R33 Turbos S1 & S2, for all intents and purposes are identical. (there is a minor exception, but forget about it for the majority).

R34 turbo will come on a tad later, its nothing major. Will make a tad more power, better for hi-flowing. That's about it.

If you only want 170-190rwkw, just get a R33 turbo, 14psi and off you go. Cheapest solution for the result.

Awesome, thanks for the great replies! I was thinking R33 would be best but just saw some R34 turbos on ebay starting cheap and thought I could use that. One on there is a garrett and they were told it was from a Nissan R34, I have heard that garrett made some turbos and I asked if it had OP6 on it and they couldnt see it on there, so is it still from a R34?

So concluding from what you guys have said, R33 turbo is less laggy than R34, series 2 with nylon wheel can give better boost response so would be better. So anyone got a cheap R33 series 2 turbo for sale? :-)

R33 Turbos S1 & S2, for all intents and purposes are identical. (there is a minor exception, but forget about it for the majority).

How is nylon wheel SII identical to a twin blade alloy wheel on a SI.

The nylon wheel comes on near 500rpm faster and is slightly larger.

Have seen a few cheap on the forums lately around $250, keep checking regularly.

Or try Bill at Ats , was some months back when he done some work for me and said he sells them around $350.

With all other mods expect close to 200rwkw depending on health of engine.

Edited by PROXIMITY

I said for all intents and purposes.

Meaning simply - whilst they are different, the end result offers zero performance difference. There is no way there is a 500rpm difference between the two.

There is not one credible shred of proof that to back up some wild claim on 500rpm. If there was, everyone would be making a major deal out of it i can assure you 500rpm gain people would be swapping stock turbos out as it's probably one of the best bang for buck mods (if it were true).

So having a S1 or a S2 turbo makes no difference.

Sorry i understood it as no differences only minor not mentionable.

I have a r32,r33 and a ceffy currently, i have changed between all these turbos mentioned, and from my experience i believe the nylon wheel does come on much faster and pulls harder.

And i said near 500rpm.

i have had this conversation with a reputable Turbo dealer here who says same thing.

Also having a non tuned rb20 stock ecu running 13psi with a sII turbo making 197rwkw says something aswell, when all the s1 with same mods make around 180-185.

My 2 cents not having ago, just saying what i have experienced, and i dont think Nissan just changed to nylon for no reason.

Edited by PROXIMITY

Definitely the word on the street is series 2 is ahead of series 1 turbo, whether an inch or a mile its there considering everything I have read. Better start saving my cash for one :-)

Sorry i understood it as no differences only minor not mentionable.

I have a r32,r33 and a ceffy currently, i have changed between all these turbos mentioned, and from my experience i believe the nylon wheel does come on much faster and pulls harder.

And i said near 500rpm.

i have had this conversation with a reputable Turbo dealer here who says same thing.

Also having a non tuned rb20 stock ecu running 13psi with a sII turbo making 197rwkw says something aswell, when all the s1 with same mods make around 180-185.

My 2 cents not having ago, just saying what i have experienced, and i dont think Nissan just changed to nylon for no reason.

s1 and s2 r33 will make the same power as the nylon compressor wheel has pretty much no bearing on max power only spool up time. also from my experience the spool up time difference between the 2 is extremely minimal and would more come down to the individual tune of the car. an engine with higher compression or more advanced timing will make the car spool up quicker and pull harder.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...