Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went to a import dealer today to look at a 1999 R34 GTR Vspec they have for sale.

The dealer stated to me that during compliance, the intake and exhaust gas temp gauges are disabled on the multi function display.

However he said that they can be re-enabled.

My questions are:

1. Did your Australian complianced Vspec have these two functions disabled?

2. If they where were you able to re-enable them?

3. If you did, how was it done?

Anyone out there kind enough to reply with some info is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310891-question-for-r34-gtr-vspec-owners/
Share on other sites

hmmm Never heard of them being disabled, and for what reason?

Is it realy a vspec? did it have the sensor in the intercooler?

You could run a check of the vin on Nissan fast or check if the the sensor is in place or run the diagnostics on the mfd.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

This will show all the working sensors and if the are in the car and connected they will show up. (note: some need to reach operating temp before they work)

Good to see your checking sounds a little dodgy to me...

Edited by 99 GTT

Wow, I've never heard of that excuse before. Very creative but it's pure and simple, it's total bollocks. Our raws workshop comply R34 GT-R's including V Spec's and the simple answer is no, we dont disconnect those sensors. It has absolutely no purpose to disconnect them, unless the dealer is trying to sell you a car that's not what is claimed to be.

Wow, I've never heard of that excuse before. Very creative but it's pure and simple, it's total bollocks. Our raws workshop comply R34 GT-R's including V Spec's and the simple answer is no, we dont disconnect those sensors. It has absolutely no purpose to disconnect them, unless the dealer is trying to sell you a car that's not what is claimed to be.

Seeing as you are a RAWs workshop then I will take your word for it (I won't mention your name to the dealer).

I only had a quick look at the car today so I did not have time to inspect it properly or even turn it on yet/test drive/etc..

At least I know it is a V-Spec (I checked with nissan FAST) but I am a bit put off by the dealers comment about disabling it.

I will do a full investigation and report here once I do.

You are more than welcome to name our workshop as I know we are adhering to the rules.

Also with the vin number, just double check their details with the ones that are actually on the car. The plaque is located on the firewall, if I remember correctly.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

This will show all the working sensors and if the are in the car and connected they will show up. (note: some need to reach operating temp before they work)

Good to see your checking sounds a little dodgy to me...

I went in to diagnostic mode just to have a play around because I was curious.

After doing so, I found that I had lost my exhaust and intake temp display as well!

As mentioned above, the sensors need to be reactivated so for something such as exhaust temp you'll need to be in diagnostic mode and drive until the exhaust temp hits the minimum (400 degrees) before the sensor will be showing as active again.

Below is a picture of the screen after I went in to it and some functions weren't showing up as working.

You'll need to enter diagnostic mode with the engine on to try to reactivate these things.

This is a bit difficult to get the timing right because step 3 of the instructions is to go from OFF to ON while holding the joystick in.

To get in to diagnostic mode with the engine on, I had to time it right so that I pressed the joystick in during the time the car cranked over (and the power to the screen cuts out). Hope you understand what I mean..

th_MFD.jpg

So once the engine is on and you're in diagnostic mode still, you can start reactivating the greyed out sensors.

Eg. Speed, exhaust, F-torque, F/R and L/R G forces, brake..

And done!

th_MFD1-1.jpg

Usually, a quick drive down the street will bring the exhaust temp high enough to get to 400 degrees.

I thought I could do it by sitting in my driveway holding the revs up but it was taking too long haha.

I hope this helps in some way!

Oh and also as mentioned, those sensors don't get disabled during compliance.

My guess is someone went in to diagnostics to play around and couldn't figure out how to reactivate it.

Edited by UnCo
  • 2 weeks later...

I just tried this with my V-Spec, i managed to turn off the bottom two sensors and shit myself because I couldnt get them back on! After a while of stuffing around I figured it out.

So the sensors may just be turned off but I wouldnt have believed it if I had not tried it myself.

You need to use the functions to activate them, so when you have started the car in the diagnostic mode take it for a 5 min drive and you will see all of the items light up by themselves.

I was stressng out when I turned mine off as I couldnt turn them back on, but you will see for example, when you his the brakes, the brake light will illuminate on the MFD.

  • 5 weeks later...

hello

i have r34 gtr v-spec 2002

it's happen to me today and can't back it

i was play around Diagnostic mode and after that i lost the bottom sensor and can't work any more

i try to get Diagnostic mode but i can't not work with me any more !! why

and AWD and LSD not work as well after rebuild the engine may be tps need reprograme ? when hit i get 96% and i lost oil pressure sensor too sowed 0 and go to 1 and stop

i hate the car now no thing work !!

any body have same problem ad can't get Diagnostic mode

Duckyys, AFAIK the G-Meter is on the Nismo MFD?

I actually only found that out when I hopped in another GT-R and realised it didn't have it whereas mine did.

Diagnostic mode

1) Turn the key to the "OFF" position

2) Push and hold the joystick

3) Turn the key to the "ON" position while still holding down the joystick

4) Release the joystick at least 1 second after the "GT-R logo" appears.

5) Click the joystick 5 times within the next 3 seconds.

To get in to diagnostic mode with the engine on, this is what I did.

- Key in the ON position but engine off still.

- Turn the key to START the car. In the split second the power to the screen turns off, press and hold the joystick in.

- When the GT-R logo sppears, click the joystick 5 times within 3 seconds.

It might take a few tries at this to work because the timing of pushing the joystick when the screen is off has to be right.

Once you are in diagnostic mode with the engine turned on, drive up and down the street until all the sensors have turned green.

To recalibrate the TPS follow these instructions.

1. Turn the key to the OFF position.

2. Press and hold "RETURN" and "MODE" buttons at the same time.

3. Turn the key to the ON position while still holding down RETURN and MODE buttons.

4. When the GT-R logo appears, release the RETURN and MODE buttons and click the joystick 5 times within 3 seconds.

You will then enter the calibration for TPS.

It will be in Japanese, but the first screen asks you to have 0% throttle and press the joystick.

Then it will ask you to hold 100% throttle and press the joystick.

Then it will show you a guage to confirm.

Turn off the car to exit.

Edited by UnCo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...