Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Working on a project, which calls for an external pump. I have an RB25DET standard internal pump (from a series 1 R33). Upon inspection, it seems to have tiny holes near the intake tube on the bottom of the pump. These seem to leak, which is not very awesome for an external pump.

I guess my question is, can I safely plug these holes up? Or is there something else I can do to make this an external pump?

Sadly I don't have a picture with me of the pump and its many holes. :)

thanks in advance

Hey guys,

Working on a project, which calls for an external pump. I have an RB25DET standard internal pump (from a series 1 R33). Upon inspection, it seems to have tiny holes near the intake tube on the bottom of the pump. These seem to leak, which is not very awesome for an external pump.

I guess my question is, can I safely plug these holes up? Or is there something else I can do to make this an external pump?

Sadly I don't have a picture with me of the pump and its many holes. :)

thanks in advance

'In tank' fuel pumps often rely on being submersed in fuel to keep them cool...ie The fuel acts as cooling medium...They can make them a lot cheaper that way...

I would also be cautious because the 'consequence' of it failing can be very high such as an in car fire...ie not like a water pump where things might get a bit wet

Mm, while it's not going in a car, it would certainly be very unpleasant to have it leak petrol.

Overheating is a good point. I might have to submerse it in a little surge tank thing under the main tank, which would solve all my problems, but create extra work.

Such a pity that I can't get it into the main tank, and that real externals cost so much.

It would be far cheaper to convert this pump to external :)

but if it's not possible my next option will be to attach a small box to the bottom of the tank, to house the pump (submerged). will still be far cheaper than buying another pump.

It would be far cheaper to convert this pump to external :)

but if it's not possible my next option will be to attach a small box to the bottom of the tank, to house the pump (submerged). will still be far cheaper than buying another pump.

What sort of flow and pressure delivery do you need? Are you recirculating the fuel?

The temperature issue may not be an issue if the load on the pump is much smaller than what it is when it is in a car....

ok, some background:

Providing fuel for RB25DET.

Will be level with the engine, so shouldn't need to pump up or down to get there.

Yes recirculating.

will be outside in the air/wind. I could even attach heatsinks to it and shit, seriously.

the biggest problem i see is the two little holes that leak. I don't really know what they are for, or if I can plug them up.

i see two possible solutions, inside my budget:

1. convert this pump to external, commence happy funtimes.

2. attach box to bottom of fuel tank, submerse pump in that. have lines running out of that box. this would actually stop fuel starvation without having to put baffles in the tank (which is impossible in this situation), so i'm starting to lean towards this as a better solution.

I wish someone knew what those little holes are for in the pump

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...