Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

My mate's mech told him his upper control arm bushes on his 33 are shot.

Now he has been quoted around 2.5hrs labour to do both sides and around 200 in parts. i found this kit from whiteline KCA348 at 192.80.

My mate is broke atm and i know bugger all about these and just wanted to check whether

a) the whiteline stuff is the go?

b) is the 2.5hrs labour about right? is this something you can do yourself? apparantly the bushes have to be pressed in by machine?

cheers in advance Rich

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311626-r33-upper-control-arm-bushes/
Share on other sites

those are the outer bushes, are they the ones that are shot? there are inner bushes as well...

http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/

ive done it a couple of times dyi, its a pain. you could use a g clamp etc, but we used some large washers to compress the bush into place.

those are the outer bushes, are they the ones that are shot? there are inner bushes as well...

http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/

ive done it a couple of times dyi, its a pain. you could use a g clamp etc, but we used some large washers to compress the bush into place.

Interesting topic, im in a similar situation myself,

What is involved in getting to the bushes, do I need to take the control arm off.

When you put this all back in do you have to adjust the camber or anything like that.

Can anyone give me a run down on this.

Also 180 2 Envy do you have any pictures of your car, I would like to see if I am indeed envious of your automobile.

its a simple enough job, just some work involved.

car up in the air on stands

wheel off

undo the outer and inner end bolts for the control arm to remove it (can be siezed on pretty tight so maybe get some wd40 on them then come back later)

press out the old bushes (hard to do it without a big press, I broke a little mobile press doing UCA bushes)

grease then press in the new bushes

reinstall the upper arm, tighten bolts to spec (pretty damn tight, check the workshop manual)

wheel back on

car back on ground

tighten wheelnuts to 110nm

drive to wheel alignment

assuming the bushes are not adjustable you will have not problems driving to a wheel alignment. if they are adjustable be careful, random wheel alignment can lead to very unpredictable handling (camber affects toe as well). try and set adjustable bushes at home first to same time and money at the wheel aligner..shorter distance between inner and outer bolts = more camber.

its a simple enough job, just some work involved.

car up in the air on stands

wheel off

undo the outer and inner end bolts for the control arm to remove it (can be siezed on pretty tight so maybe get some wd40 on them then come back later)

press out the old bushes (hard to do it without a big press, I broke a little mobile press doing UCA bushes)

grease then press in the new bushes

reinstall the upper arm, tighten bolts to spec (pretty damn tight, check the workshop manual)

wheel back on

car back on ground

tighten wheelnuts to 110nm

drive to wheel alignment

assuming the bushes are not adjustable you will have not problems driving to a wheel alignment. if they are adjustable be careful, random wheel alignment can lead to very unpredictable handling (camber affects toe as well). try and set adjustable bushes at home first to same time and money at the wheel aligner..shorter distance between inner and outer bolts = more camber.

Cheers for that Duncan, that helps a lot.

Edited by mikeyG

the 33 upper outer arm has a pin/bolt the whole way through, so take the nut off the end and knock the pin through. then prise the arm off the upright.

prise the one end of the bush off, flat head screw driver between the upright and the bush. once you have 2-4mm, some needle nose pliers, open

em up and wrap them around the bush. then push back and forward until you have the bush off. then you can access the bush on the other side

from the center to knock it out.

you can do all that with the arm still on the car, as the bush is in the up right (its quite different to the 32 arm) .

grab the new bush, knock one side in. put the bolt back on (this is if you have split bolt with the new bush) with the largest washer you can

get from bunnings etc, tighten it up a bit.

knock the bush in the other side and do the same. tighten em up, then take the washer out and put the arm back on.

  • Like 1

Hey guys, thanks for the info - i have passed it on. he will give dyi a go as his dad can get the bushes presed in at his work.

Hey MikeyG i should change my username as the 180 is long gone and it never got to an envious stage unfortunately it was a project started but never finished(not even close).

cheers rich

  • 2 weeks later...

Most excellent info mate!!

Did the removal just an hour ago and it was very easy. I only used a flat head screw driver and a hammer and it was done in about 10 minutes on one side! Time here is now 00:22, so I'm going to bed.

Will do the other side and install the new super pro bushes with camber correction tomorrow.

Many thanx!

BR, Stefan

the 33 upper outer arm has a pin/bolt the whole way through, so take the nut off the end and knock the pin through. then prise the arm off the upright.

prise the one end of the bush off, flat head screw driver between the upright and the bush. once you have 2-4mm, some needle nose pliers, open

em up and wrap them around the bush. then push back and forward until you have the bush off. then you can access the bush on the other side

from the center to knock it out.

you can do all that with the arm still on the car, as the bush is in the up right (its quite different to the 32 arm) .

grab the new bush, knock one side in. put the bolt back on (this is if you have split bolt with the new bush) with the largest washer you can

get from bunnings etc, tighten it up a bit.

knock the bush in the other side and do the same. tighten em up, then take the washer out and put the arm back on.

  • 3 months later...

im in the same boat, well, im getting a slight nocking noise comming from the rear drivers side while at 20-30km/h or so, got told it was prob a bush that was stuck and causing excess movement. only thing is bushes seem to be fricken expensive. what bushes are needed for a standard r33? although mine has a 1.5 diff in it that really shuds ya round corners. is there any dangerous problems from driving on warn bushes if thats my case? i have a trip i have to make on the weekend is all

Edited by buckets
  • 1 month later...

I thought this was the case on my r33, when i sprayed a lubrication at the inner bushes on the control arm, it would stop making noises, i bought a second hand one and had it replaced, but just for shits and giggles we pressed the old bush out of the arm, and made an absolute mess of the bush, but could not find any replacement bushes that were made for that part of the arm. After a month the clunking noise came back so i thought the second hand one was stuffed, so i bought two new upper control arms for $570 from nissan, same thing again, it was all good until i drove over a cattle grid halfway to brisbane. Turns out the clunking noise was just a Stabilizer Link Pin and was shot inside cost $100 to repair.

As for the fulcrum bushes, i replaced the outside bush with the adjustable camber ones from fulcrum, and now it is done up that tight it squeaks every bump driveway, and i still have a large camber. So i will need to get this fixed.

What sort of bushes can i replace the outside bushes with. Was thinking polyurethane again, and would they have to be adjustable ones, even if they come in some sort of kit, i may consider buying this way. What's a different fairly good brand i could replace with?

Cheers.

Edited by 3340TH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...