Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det-r Dropped To 3 Cyl. Ideas? Need Help.

31GUN

By 31GUN,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

31GUN Proficient

31GUN

Posted
Posted

My car is running an RB20DET-R redtop ECCS.

It is stock with all the -R bits (tubular manifold, TO4, specific ECU, etc)

Driving down the freeway and it dropped a couple of cylinders, no mechanical noises, and got a ride home on a tilt tray.

1st tried swapping the crank angle sensor, no change.

next swapped the igniter, no change.

next started unplugging coil packs.

The engine is running on cylinders 2,4,and 6.

1,3, and 5 are dead.

Any ideas anyone?

I've got plenty of coil packs, plugs, 3 igniters, 4 crank angle sensors, but it seemed a bit strange 1,3,5 out and 2,4,6, in.

Every 2nd cylinder out

Need help.

Hooks

lagperformance Contributor

lagperformance

Posted
Posted
My car is running an RB20DET-R redtop ECCS.

It is stock with all the -R bits (tubular manifold, TO4, specific ECU, etc)

Driving down the freeway and it dropped a couple of cylinders, no mechanical noises, and got a ride home on a tilt tray.

1st tried swapping the crank angle sensor, no change.

next swapped the igniter, no change.

next started unplugging coil packs.

The engine is running on cylinders 2,4,and 6.

1,3, and 5 are dead.

Any ideas anyone?

I've got plenty of coil packs, plugs, 3 igniters, 4 crank angle sensors, but it seemed a bit strange 1,3,5 out and 2,4,6, in.

Every 2nd cylinder out

Need help.

Hooks

hey man.

just so you know in general when coilpacks go the car still idles on 6cylinders its when under load it will normally start detonating and misfiring dropping cylinders etc

on one of my past engines was only running on 5 cylinders changed coilpacks ignitor crank angle sensor etc.. none of them were a problem so decided to do a compression test tells all tales took the spark plug out of cylinder 6 to find the end broken off run a compression test no compression on 6cylinder sounded like a hotted up subaru and a gtr with the old foot down all cylinders make some compression under full load anyways couple weeks later after some text book thrashing pulled it out and to pieces that bit of spark plug took a nice chunk out of an exhaust valve

anyways advice for you

- check coil and injector loom replace if necessary

- remove spark plugs check for missing bits

- run a compression test these engines originally came out with 180psi per cylinder. yours will more than likely have less if all cylinders are even or within 10 percent of the highest reading cylinder algud otherwise some problems with valve seals, piston rings or head gasket depending!!!

- also check near the fuse box and all earths on the vehicle

- find another standard ecu

- get it on the diognostic tester local mechanical shop

- use the red and green lights on the ecu to manually check for fault codes if possible on this model

- look for hole in engine lol

anyways if all this doesnt work or you would like some furthur information feel free to ask

31GUN Proficient

31GUN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did the screwdriver to ear thing on the injectors and they are all firing

(I pretty much guessed that anyway because of the unburnt fuel coming out the rear)

I tested all the leads with a multimeter and all are good including earths.

So I tried a coilpack and plug on each cylinder. No spark 1, 3, and 5.

It's got to be between the igniter and this guy

newblack050.jpg

Actually, I'm starting to think that it may be an earth problem, but whoever did the GTS-R engine swap needs their arse kicked.

When I took the kick panel off, the ECU just fell out. It wasn't bolted in, just floating around behind there. :D

Hooks

MoogLe Community Regular

MoogLe

Posted
Posted

have you had any luck with this?

im having this EXACT same problem with my RB25 but im running a powerfc

cylinders 1,3 and 5 are dead.....

we're fearing it might be the ecu since the ignitors are built into my coil packs

it's definately getting fuel since i pretty much had a huge puddle of fuel on the ground after testing

  • 3 weeks later...
31GUN Proficient

31GUN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Made another discovery.

newblack012.jpg

That looks to me like a removeable Eprom.

So It's definitely been fiddled with at some stage.

At the moment I am leaning towards the ecu being cactus.

It would be strange to have 1,3, and 5 out from the wiring.

I have another red cam cover ECCS ecu coming next week so I'll plug that in and start her up.

3 cylinders:- it's the wiring.

6 cylinders:- it's the ecu.

I'll post the results.

Lucky this car is my hobby car and not the everyday.

Hooks

31GUN Proficient

31GUN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Actually think I may have found the problem

Looks to me like the board has seen a bit of heat, bit hard to see here....

DSC01001.jpg

Here it is a little closer

DSC01002.jpg

And this is the culprit on the other side

DSC01003.jpg

And with the retainer plate removed

DSC01004.jpg

I don't know if it can be fixed, but I'll be making enquiries before it ends up here

DSC01007.jpg

Hooks

  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...