Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, sorry don't want to steal your thread mate but isn't the stock boost in an r34 gtt up round 11-12 psi? mine is running with no mods and the in car gauge is up there...

is your by anychance a series 2 ? my gtt sedan is !!

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

there is harm in replacing the hose . you might replace the one with the restrictor in it with a hose without the restrictor in it . =free boost .

anyone who is using the stock gauge can stop replying right now .

my stagea (neo motor) ran an unstable .8 bar with exhaust and intercooler upgrades . all this is common info .

the r34 does have a solenoid . i really dont know how this thread managed to dig up so many uneducated people all at once

as for the spool up its either the normal neo noise ( to do with plastic wheels) or you most likely have a slightly blown exhaust manifold gasket

Edited by lachlanw
there is harm in replacing the hose . you might replace the one with the restrictor in it with a hose without the restrictor in it . =free boost .

anyone who is using the stock gauge can stop replying right now .

my stagea (neo motor) ran an unstable .8 bar with exhaust and intercooler upgrades . all this is common info .

the r34 does have a solenoid . i really dont know how this thread managed to dig up so many uneducated people all at once

as for the spool up its either the normal neo noise ( to do with plastic wheels) or you most likely have a slightly blown exhaust manifold gasket

ok yes my mates car is not a neo but its the only one to go by.

as for the hose before i do try getting a new one is it the one that goes from the T piece under the airbox snorkel and down to the round metal thing just ubove the turbo ?

if so what should i ask for when i go to replace it ? can it be purchased from autobarn?

would the exhaust manifold gasket leave some evidence if its leaking? iv looked and theres no oil or moister (u use to race a gemini in rally and thats how i could tell if there was a manafold leak if it wasnt obvious (but there was alot of dust to stick to and oil leaks) the r34 is spotless in the engin bay .

as i said earlyer im ner to turbos well anything fuel injected for that matter.

anyone who is using the stock gauge can stop replying right now .

umm, we're sorry? any reason for that?

my stagea (neo motor) ran an unstable .8 bar with exhaust and intercooler upgrades . all this is common info .

what's that supposed to mean? that the stock gauge doesn't work for mods? that it takes these upgrades to get to 11-12psi?

the r34 does have a solenoid . i really dont know how this thread managed to dig up so many uneducated people all at once

it was a team effort :)

damnit, such a noobie question lol: how do i tell :$

ok gees i read your post so wrong the first time and realy ripped through you , my bad i have to read the full post first sorry . i deleted it once i realized

um from what i can tell is the series 2 has a shitty bumber that covers most the places you would like all your air to go , and it has a two tone dash and console . your dash lights are orange at night .

i think they have solid lifter in the motor so i thort maybe its a series 2 thing to have 11 psi ?

lol, yes, to make it clear it was my question that was the noobie one.

i'll have to have a look, it sounds like the differences are painfully subtle if you haven't seen them before.

buuuuuuutt. i'm reasonably sure that its a 1999 model, and i read elsewhere the series 2's were 2000 onwards. I say reasonably because the guy i bought this from had no idea: he had tyre pressures less than you'd put in a camry (the car has 235 front 265 backs and 18" rims), different front tyres, different spacer WIDTHS on the front (not even kidding), illegally huge spacers on the back, 3" catback exhaust (not 4 as he said), he didn't know the kw (and was surprised to hear it), nor the turbo type (as in different to r33), thought the amp under the passenger seat was an additional computer... (takes a breath) need i continue?

so yeah, how do i check what year it is? I assume it's somewhere on the engine, or in the engine code?

i really dont know how this thread managed to dig up so many uneducated people all at once

that would be because most of are here to learn from people such as your self that have been there and experienced that !!. and we apreciate all the help we can get as that is what forums are for .

i will make sure when i change the acutator hose i make sure its the hose made for that job tanks for that advice

lol, yes, to make it clear it was my question that was the noobie one.

i'll have to have a look, it sounds like the differences are painfully subtle if you haven't seen them before.

buuuuuuutt. i'm reasonably sure that its a 1999 model, and i read elsewhere the series 2's were 2000 onwards. I say reasonably because the guy i bought this from had no idea: he had tyre pressures less than you'd put in a camry (the car has 235 front 265 backs and 18" rims), different front tyres, different spacer WIDTHS on the front (not even kidding), illegally huge spacers on the back, 3" catback exhaust (not 4 as he said), he didn't know the kw (and was surprised to hear it), nor the turbo type (as in different to r33), thought the amp under the passenger seat was an additional computer... (takes a breath) need i continue?

so yeah, how do i check what year it is? I assume it's somewhere on the engine, or in the engine code?

i tell you what ill look under the bonnet now and get back to you but a dead give away is the dash light when you turn them on they will be orange if its series 2 and white if its series 1 (unless hes put different colour leds in it lol.

...yeah thebottom of mine said R34-37-2A (not much help i suppose). But the import sticker said 06/99, which i assume is year?

the tc and hicas lights are orange, the speedo and tacho are white

...yeah thebottom of mine said R34-37-2A (not much help i suppose). But the import sticker said 06/99, which i assume is year?

the tc and hicas lights are orange, the speedo and tacho are white

it will be a series 1 then

so, bringing the thread back into line:

what should the stock psi be for an r34 gtt s1 or s2?

As far as i have been told by my mechanic who has done a fair few neos the R34 gtt (and the stagea) was released with a few different set ups for the engine tune, maybe it was bought stock at 11psi, but it probably just due to your mods and maybe a tune.mine Was running 5-7psi when i picked it up but had a tune and wound it up to 11psi, no mods at all other than that, bog stock and it pulls 161rwkw.

Also the standard gauge is in hhmg not kpa or psi as someone suggested.

Almost. The standard gauge is mmhg or millimetres of mercury. 7 on the gauge (which is 700) equals 13.5 psi

Thanks for the correction mate i typo'd haha, maybe im dyslexic?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
×
×
  • Create New...