Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

got my 34 4 pots ready to go on an i was just thinking, can i put the stock 2 pots on the rear?

i know of a tracked 31 that has 32 fronts on the rear (i think)

so would i be able to swap my 2 pots to the rear?

anyone tried this before? any success?

thanks

Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/
Share on other sites

i'm sure you find that the mounting points for the rear will not accommodate a front calliper. you will also probably run into issue's finding a suitable rotor that will fit the offset required for the calliper, and also have the deeper hub for the handbrake shoes. i would also think that by putting a set of fronts on the rear you will probably stuff up the brake bias.

if your after a cheap upgrade for the rear just get a set of R32GTR or R33GTST ones, they are a lot more common that a set of R34GTT rears would be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5137022
Share on other sites

i'm sure you find that the mounting points for the rear will not accommodate a front calliper. you will also probably run into issue's finding a suitable rotor that will fit the offset required for the calliper, and also have the deeper hub for the handbrake shoes. i would also think that by putting a set of fronts on the rear you will probably stuff up the brake bias.

if your after a cheap upgrade for the rear just get a set of R32GTR or R33GTST ones, they are a lot more common that a set of R34GTT rears would be.

yeah but if you think about it gtst rears are 297 (fronts are 296, if i'm remembering correctly) and the gtst (or gts25t) rears are 2 pots too

i'm upgrading to 4 pot fronts so moving the 2 pots to the rear should help ballence

i'll contact the guy running the front on his rears and find out if he is still retaining the stock handbrake

so for the moment it seems like a no go, i shall delve deeper

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5137080
Share on other sites

i'm upgrading to 4 pot fronts so moving the 2 pots to the rear should help ballence

it doesn't quite work like that though. the last thing you want is to reduce the braking force to the fronts by increasing the size of the rears to something that could throw out the front/rear bias percentage (bmc can only dislplace so much fluid)

nothing wrong with just upgrading the fronts and leaving the rears though, as most of braking force is through the front wheels

as said above, just get the rears from a 33 gts-t and save stuffing around

Edited by M I K E
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5137115
Share on other sites

it doesn't quite work like that though. the last thing you want is to reduce the braking force to the fronts by increasing the size of the rears to something that could throw out the front/rear bias percentage (bmc can only dislplace so much fluid)

nothing wrong with just upgrading the fronts and leaving the rears though, as most of braking force is through the front wheels

as said above, just get the rears from a 33 gts-t and save stuffing around

This is sillyness. If you want to do the rears use r33 gtst. If not as Mike and qwk32 have said just leave the rears as is and upgrade fronts. Buy decent pads, adr braided lines, slotted rotors and upgrade bmc - end of story. Most people do this for the visual aspect and there is no real proof this upgrade is better than a well setup stock set of brakes. Going better like Brembos wouldnt be justified on your rig atm. Watch low pedal position and handbrake issues. Use the search function and read brake threads by other members for more troubleshooting info. If you are after a excellent jap pad and quality brake products I recommend Acre. As I can swear by their products for daily driving.

Edited by dirtyRS4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5137171
Share on other sites

yeah but if you think about it gtst rears are 297 (fronts are 296, if i'm remembering correctly) and the gtst (or gts25t) rears are 2 pots too

i'm upgrading to 4 pot fronts so moving the 2 pots to the rear should help ballence

i'll contact the guy running the front on his rears and find out if he is still retaining the stock handbrake

so for the moment it seems like a no go, i shall delve deeper

Never mind delving ...just take your wheels off and have a look - they won't fit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5137324
Share on other sites

33/34 rears share the same caliper/rotor combo if I remember correctly, fronts share the same caliper internally (With longer mounting arms to the hub) but a different disc size. 33 rears can be had for a (relative) pittance, as everyone loves the brembo brake upgrade, and there are always plenty of 33 GTS-T's wrecking. I would go for the 33 rear set-up if you really wanted to double the amount of pistons. I can attest to the rears being a direct bolt up to S1's, I'm sure they would be similarly easy to bolt on to S2's.

I got my front and rear 33 set-up with Calipers/Pads/Rotors (Pads & Rotors near new) off of a rolling part-out 33 GTS-T (defected) for $380. Start searching the classifieds :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5138474
Share on other sites

yeah i'll just leave it

maybe i'll redrill the rotors and put the old 2 pots on my 31

got my 34 fronts with pads, lines and rotors for $400

i'll see how they go for now then

just gotta find some metalcast paint :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5138661
Share on other sites

This is sillyness. If you want to do the rears use r33 gtst. If not as Mike and qwk32 have said just leave the rears as is and upgrade fronts. Buy decent pads, adr braided lines, slotted rotors and upgrade bmc - end of story. Most people do this for the visual aspect and there is no real proof this upgrade is better than a well setup stock set of brakes. Going better like Brembos wouldnt be justified on your rig atm. Watch low pedal position and handbrake issues. Use the search function and read brake threads by other members for more troubleshooting info. If you are after a excellent jap pad and quality brake products I recommend Acre. As I can swear by their products for daily driving.

upgrade bmc and get a bmc stopper :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5140402
Share on other sites

When i fitted the GTT brakes I found the master cylinder worked fine but I see that some people have replaced it - presumably to reduce the pedal travel (although increasing the effort required).

My S1 has a BM50 - what are peope using who have upgraded and from which vehicle are these available (or have you paid the brand new price)??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5141868
Share on other sites

When i fitted the GTT brakes I found the master cylinder worked fine but I see that some people have replaced it - presumably to reduce the pedal travel (although increasing the effort required).

My S1 has a BM50 - what are peope using who have upgraded and from which vehicle are these available (or have you paid the brand new price)??

I bought a cusco new at around $150 (Part no: 232 561A). Pedal feel was higher, less spongy and more responsive, but i had a full overhaul to stock brakes so hard to tell (comparing GTT fronts.) Dont know about using second hand stuff here (10-15 years old) but a GTT/GTR uses a BM50 and GTST uses a BM44. Brembos are BM57 and it seems that a 300ZX BMC uses that same bigger cylinder diameter - 26.9mm vs 25.4mm respectively?

Edited by dirtyRS4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312233-riddle-me-this/#findComment-5142824
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
    • The rod I was moving left and right you can see looking from the passenger side floor up into the center console.  IMG_8095.mov
×
×
  • Create New...