Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 R32 GTST

BODY

GTR gunmetal respray with lots of perl ( ful jub in boot engine bay ect)

GTR front bar

GTST side skirts

GTST rear pods

GTR N1 boot lip

GTR Rear wing

GTR rear bar

20% tint all round

non projector headlights.

ENGINE

Rb20det

R34 op6 neo turbo

AM performance screamer pipe

Xr6 turbo fuel pump

boost controller

Greddy fmic

Air flow meter relocated to intercooler piping

Metal intake pipe

3" stainless turbo back exhaust

3" stainless cat converter

Xtreme HD clutch ( just pretty much a stock replacment .. works good nice and easy)

Suspension

Oteins front coilovers

JIC magic 2deg neg front camber arms

New castor rod bushes

Hicas lock bar

GTR rear swaybar

some random rear coilovers ( not too bad )

17x8 and 17x9 doritecs with NEW bridgestone S03's on the front, new kumhos on rear

BOSS RACING DIFFS rebuilt diff with shimmed lsd.

Interior.

Recaro bucket reclinable bucket seat

K's design din guages

water temp

oil pressure

oil temp

Autometer air fuel ratio guage

Blitz boost guage

Nismo 260 kmph speedo

enuf doof doof to keep the chicks happy ....

Now the car was originally Non turbo, a complete driveline swap was done, and all legally smile.gif

the car still retains 4 stud, as i really like the wheels on it , it has R33 non turbo brakes( to keep it legal), and comes with all the nesicary 5 stud hardware , if you wish to go 5 stud . but u would need new rims, and i like these ones smile.gif nismo speedo shows 61,000 kms ... other speedo was on 100 , so around 160,000 kms .

The paint is really something nice about the car, its pretty much immaculate, couple of little pin dents but thats it.. the car is in VERY good condition!

10k..cash

32driftteks.jpg

IMG_0212.jpg

IMG_0213.jpg

more pics upon request!

Edited by 5LTBETR

DAMN i wish i had 10k in cash. Also free bump for a very nice Skyline.

Edited by Fliggy
  • 4 weeks later...

What to do you mean in the paint when you say lots of pearl? Also can i get get pics of little dents please.

Edited by viiictor
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...