Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, totally new to this forum. Looking to buy a V35, anywhere from 2003 to 2005 model. Have looked at all the ads on Carsales, Autoweb etc and prices seem all over the place, so not sure of what a realistic price is at the moment!

I've seen ads for say 2004 V35's, with leather, immaculate condition etc for early 20ks but then 2003's going for 25k or more??? Or a 2005 with asking price of 20k!

Anyways, just want to get people's thoughts of where the market is at realistically. I prefer a manual or semi-automatic would be ok, leather in either gun metal or silver, and wondering if max $25k is realistic. When I say 25k that is my absolute max, ideally about 21-22k.

I'm in Sydney btw

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

don't trust the ones selling for $24000 and claims they have 25000kms on it. it is extremely rare for 03-04 V35 to have that kms on the clocks. and yet some dealer has full yard of them. if you are referring the ones on parramatta rd , don't bother!. they are famous for winding clock back. do some research on this forum and you will find the details.

if you spending 21-22k, you can get a decent skyline sedan 250gt for that price

Edited by tonich

if you looking at car sales watch out the one posing as "private seller" with very short description on the cars. they are actually a car dealer who wants to sell their cars out side of business. try to give them a call at night you will found they are always not contactable as it is not during business / they are not working. they usually take pictures next to a park or near building where there are graffiti on the wall.

Edited by tonich
Thanks again for the tip Tonich!

What's your opinion on buying from those who import straight from Japan?

Mate, if you don't mind waiting 10 to 12 weeks for you car, get it from Japan.

22k you can get a great car.

e.g http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...hp?StockID=4953

Mate, if you don't mind waiting 10 to 12 weeks for you car, get it from Japan.

22k you can get a great car.

+1. I have imported all my cars from Japan in the last few years ( a Legnum, a chaser and 2 V35 coupes), and the cost saving is significant to say the least.

FYI: one of my V35s was a '03manual Premium edition in immaculate condition with a documented and genuine 10800km on the the clock: it still smelled and drove like a brand new car (brought it in last year). Total cost on the road including rego and insurance was $22300.

Like Paul said, if you're willing to wait for the car, you'll get more for your money.

HOWEVER, I have not waited less than 4 months to get a car from the day I pay for it in Japan to having it ready to pick up from compliance. I assume I've been unlucky (4 times!!), but my 2 V35s came in together, and took 7 months...

That said, I'll be bringing in a V36 as soon as I can sell the Chargespeed V35: I'm hooked on bringing them in myself: it's a good rush!

.

HOWEVER, I have not waited less than 4 months to get a car from the day I pay for it in Japan to having it ready to pick up from compliance. I assume I've been unlucky (4 times!!), but my 2 V35s came in together, and took 7 months...

I picked mine up in Perth. Maybe thats why it was quicker. "quicker rout"

I picked mine up in Perth. Maybe thats why it was quicker. "quicker rout"

I'd like to think so, but had a mate over here who bought his car, had it on the road in total of 7 weeks... I'm just not lucky when it comes to that sort of stuff >_<

Makes it all the more exciting when you finally get your bum in the seat though!

Yeah think a bit unlucky Micah. Mine took 4 wks travel, and another 2 weeks compliance. Drove it away then, but had to wait for the goddamn NSW RTA to fit me in for a "Random" inspection. Funnily enough every import i've owned has had a "random" inspection.

Agree though, def look in Japan first.

I've got my heart set on a V36 Sedan, and as much as I'd like a car now, i can't justify paying an extra $10k for it.

Yeah think a bit unlucky Micah. Mine took 4 wks travel, and another 2 weeks compliance. Drove it away then, but had to wait for the goddamn NSW RTA to fit me in for a "Random" inspection. Funnily enough every import i've owned has had a "random" inspection.

Agree though, def look in Japan first.

I've got my heart set on a V36 Sedan, and as much as I'd like a car now, i can't justify paying an extra $10k for it.

I'll probably be retired with grandchildren by the time (IF) my V35 sells: 6 months on the market so far, and $6500 in price drops. At least V36s will be cheaper by then (and probably eligible to be brought in as vintage cars...)

Of course, there'll be no fuel left by then.... I'll probably have to be buried in it!

Have been in discussion with Kristian from Iron Chef Imports and considering importing a V35.

Just wondering what are the chances of getting a car with genuine Km's, besides the log books I read somewhere there is a register in Japan that you can check the car to see if the KM's are genuine or whether the odometer has been tampered with?

Dont want to bring in a car with 50,000km when really its around the 100,000km and driving it around not knowing it needs to have the timing belt done otherwise Kaboom!! its pretty much what has me worried about going to getting another Skyline.

Just sold my R33 (really miss it now) which was the best car I ever owned and want to make sure the V35 is the same.

Your best bet is aim for a car with books. You are right though, recently the Japanese changed their registration system where they now record the K's. Its only fairly new so its quite possible most second hand cars won't have a full history.

Above all though, make sure the car is properly inspected and the k's match up with the condition. This is easier to do for local cars, but still possible with a trusted broker in Japan. Aim for a very good car, not a car with low K's. They're two very different things.

The good thing though with V35's is that there's not much on them that need major attention, even around 100000k's. Most of the things are general consumeables such as plugs, break pads, fluids etc etc.

The timing belt is actually a timing chain, which i believe is recommended to be replaced well over 100,000 MILES. I think it could actually be 200000 Miles.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i am new to the V35 area and i have seen an '04 350GT Coupe 70th Anniversary Edition with 54 000kms that is 1, 020, 000 yen FOB.. does that seem too cheap (Beer Baron, Iron Chef?)?? I am new to the importing game and any help would be appreciated! :D

Also for anyone thinking of importing, the dollar is at it highest agains the yen for pretty much the last 12 months.

damn straight! I just ordered clear side indicators from Import Monster, at a cost of $143: as soon as they were shipped, I got over $30 back due to favourable exchange rates...

  • 2 weeks later...

I thought I would bring this thread back to life. I am currently eyeing a 2003 silver manual coupe with 66,000km with original and up to date log books. The asking price is $28,000 is this decent and how much do you think I should try and drop it down by? looking to maybe trade in one our current cars either a 2000 lancer or the wifes 2006 yaris yrx.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...