Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just need some help, when i push the button that re-tracts the left and right side mirrors only the left one re-tracts... what can i do to fix this or alternativley who can i take it to.. I'm on the northside of BrisVegaz.

Cheers.

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31503-automatic-mirrors/
Share on other sites

on mine the mirrors sometimes need a little tap to get them to move. hit the switch and just give the non moving one a little push start & it might work.

otherwise a reputable auto electrition should be able to sort it out for you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31503-automatic-mirrors/#findComment-639283
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Easy, just fixed the same problem myself ;) Use a multimeter on the mirror connector pins behind the door trim to see if the motor is getting power. As per usual, ground is negative and I believe you should see power to one of the 5 wires when you try to fold the mirrors in or out. On mine (and a couple of others I've heard of too) the mirror motor itself was either burnt out or seized. The trick is to get a replacement mirror from the wreckers (mine cost $100 from Panel House in Slacks Creek) and change over the internals. Here's a step-by-step guide:

What you need to do is remove your door trim, remove the 3 bolts securing your mirror and unplug the harness. The mirror itself is quite easy to dismantle. The mirror glass pops off quite easily if you prise the bottom off. After that, remove the grey foam from the part where the mirror sits on the door and remove all 3 screws there. Undo all the screws on the underside of the mirror and the 3 screws underneath the mirror glass which holds the internals in place. There are a couple of other small screws in the mirror's hinge which you need to take out as well. Once you are *positively* sure you have removed all visible screws, wedge a few fingers in behind the top of the mirror motor and wrench it forward. You really need to use quite a fair bit of force to do this, but it'll eventually pop out.

Once you've done this, you'll need to snip the wiring harness near the plug since the plug will not fit through the sailplane panel. Do the same with your replacement motor and dump the old motor in the trash. Feed the harness of your new motor through the mirror shell, the metal sailplane bracket and the plastic sailplane piece (you'll see what I mean when you actually do it). Re-solder the harness to your old plug. Everything should now screw together pretty easily, and you'll have folding mirrors once again! :)

Hope this helps!

Ian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31503-automatic-mirrors/#findComment-655766
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...