Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The previous owner of this car really screwed things up, everything was fiddled with and left in wrong settings. I have slowly fixed everything up and have just a couple of things left to fix. The alternator was screwed, i repaired that, the steering was wrong, no horn, no auto indicator cancel, too low, hicas light on, suspension too low, engine stalling and cutting out, coils misfiring.so now ive fixed most things.

but this problem just persists....

Its a two door RB20DET manual R32 1993 model (imported from japan last year) Completely stock.

Ive replaced the ECU,

cleaned and taped the coils, now no missfires whatsoever. (big smiles)

Ive put in stock springs to get ride hieght right.

horn fixed!

indicator cancel fixed.

Hicas not looked at yet, light still on.

Ive repaired dry joints in the air flow meter (that caused some really shocking stalling)

Found a faulty IAC valve and I am still on the hunt for a working one.

Reset the throttle position sensor as it was out

The throttle stop was wrong, ive set that up right now.

intake leaks, all fixed.

Fuel economy was shocking so i replaced the oxy sensor. That helped its drivability a little, but current problem still there.

It runs ok now when driving along highway and around town, but at the traffic lights and at home, it plays up a bit. It seems to stall a little now and then and it also hesitates when you go to drive off. I thought at first that it might be a loose spring in the blow off valve, but I blocked it off and it still does it.

I have read around and it seems I may have a dirty AFM but ive cleaned it and that made no difference.

I do have an oscilloscope which ive put onto the inputs and watched them while driving and havint noticed anything that would point to this problem.

Does anyone have a clue what I should look at next? Ive still got feeling that I should buy another AFM and try that. but the oscillocope shows that the current one seems to be working fine.

anyone got a clue!?

its really not very drivable at the moment, gives me the shits and i tend to drive my other car to work instead! NOT GOOD lol

Edited by stimps

They are NGK ones supposed to be right ones for the car, they are gapped to 0.7mm

I can go see what the number on the spark plug is i suppose, i didnt think they were an issue to be honest, i think of all things, my igntion seems to be really good at the moment:) certainly not the cause of this stalling issue.

If it was, it would cough and splutter, rather than just act doey or cut out like it is now

a dirty or faulty AAC valve can cause engine idle issues, maybe enough to make the car stall now and then.

theres a DIY on cleaning / freshening it up and resetting your idle which you can try here

the images are R33, but it should be very similar. it can be a bit of bitch to get to & remove/refit, but its really not a hard process overall.

Already found the fault.

I had already cleaned the ACC valve, and found a faulty IAC valve, thats a seperate issue.

the problem was, some git owner before me, has extented the AIR flow sensor wiring, for no reason !?? and had just twisted and taped the wires together, - NO SOLDERING!!

*shakes head* no wonder it was playing up lol

  stimps said:
Already found the fault.

I had already cleaned the ACC valve, and found a faulty IAC valve, thats a seperate issue.

the problem was, some git owner before me, has extented the AIR flow sensor wiring, for no reason !?? and had just twisted and taped the wires together, - NO SOLDERING!!

*shakes head* no wonder it was playing up lol

joys of the skyline lol i got 3 engines do you need an aac valve i gotta spare one and lots of other parts check my topics or give me a call 0450 728 189

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • What's on the front of their building?
    • Jax Tyres Smithfeild Ive gone there a few time, well for tyres. on my 3rd visit I spoke to the dude and told how i just got slugged for rotors, brakes ect. His reply was golden; have you read whats on the front of the building. Never forgot it.       before picture, good friend got all these goodies installed.  Well time to study, servicing, maintenance all before this weekend driving lesson.  
    • Hello, first of, I’ve looked at many threads on this code but none have helped me, if you know one that will help me feel free to post a link.   Now to my problem. Recently I was driving and noticed the check engine light came on. I went home and did the test to see what code it gave. I got the 21 code but everything seems fine with the car, no misfire, idle is good, acceleration is the same as when I bought it. I mean no signs of obvious failure. If no misfire is happening I can rule out the coil packs right? Which is about 98% of posts saying it is. If anyone has had this happen and found the issues let me know please. No other lights are on.   The car WAS due for an oil change. I since then changed it so idk if that triggers code 21. Either way it hasn’t turned off.
    • Your both right, it may hold a bit longer then.  Soon I need to change the synchros, should I fit the billet plate while I'm at it? Or just a waste of money?
    • Some of the east coast US Stagea got together this past weekend at Lime Rock Park in CT for Grid Life Circuit Legends. This is probably my favorite pic of the shoot with @Morgan.Mundahl on IG. Hope we get more stags out next year! i think I spotted 5 other than my own at the event. 
×
×
  • Create New...