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Boost Creep =dead Reaving(r32 Rb20det)

BOOZTJUNKEY

By BOOZTJUNKEY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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This strarted happing bout a week ago and i dont want to have to put it on the dyno just to find out whats wrong any help much appreciated..

first up my mods are on my r32gtst

mines ecu

splitfires

r33turbo

trust cooler kit

hks pod

split dump and full 3inch exaust and a removed cat(no i did not do that so dont comment on it i no its a shit idea)

tomie fuel reg (no gague)

intank walbro

excedy cushion button clutch 5000k old

my clutch fan ceased and while i was driveing with the shit clutch fan this started happening not sure if its related but yeah

have put a better one on there but still when i drive the car past 5500rpm i get boost creep and with the boost creep comes the dead reving (now when i say dead reving i mean the car keeps reving but the reving slows down and you can feel the power drop off which i dont under stand you would think as the boost creeps the power would rise right

i thought i had faulty actuator which i did the spring was shat and i have changed that boost is more stable but still creeping and still dead reving

i was also wondering if it could be leaning out and the ecu is retarding the timing to stop it detonating i have heard the mines ecu will do this but because of what it just started happening

i thought maybe Bad fuel or maybe blocked filter so i changed the filter and ran fuel system cleaner and it got a lil better but still is dead reving

another thing is the when the engine is cooler and you show the car some love its fine for the 1st run but after that it starts dead reving as the car gets hotter

Could there be something getting heat soaked???

one other thing i thought is that i have plumbed both the breathers on the rockers into a catch tank and then back out the catch tank into

the intake pipe

now the pipe that was going to the pod was heating up and sucking shut which isnt good but has sinced been replaced with better hose and that problem is fixed but it blocking the breathers could that haved fubared a pcv valve or something its a long shot but anythings worthago

sorry for the epic thread BUT I NEED HELP ASAP

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BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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just a quick question

before you start the compression test do you have to disconnect the electricals like ignition module etc ?

what compression test i have had it done once and that was by my tuning shop

as far as i no you just remove your sparkplug screm your tester in and manually wind the motor over

but not 100% haven done it personally

anyone else can you help me out???

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

i dont think all do, but theres a fair few i know of that definately do, check it manually and see if its free to swing open... what sort of boost pressures is it creeping to? whoa jason ive never seen the standard map before, that runs a hell of a lot of timing in the mid range at light cruise

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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i dont think all do, but theres a fair few i know of that definately do, check it manually and see if its free to swing open... what sort of boost pressures is it creeping to? whoa jason ive never seen the standard map before, that runs a hell of a lot of timing in the mid range at light cruise

yeah will pull it off in the morning and check that i had it set to 12psi on the hks evc 4 but would creep to 14psi but thats gone now and its just running the standard setup and is creeping to 14psi still i will check the dump and let you no how i go thanks guys

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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j took the actuator rod off the wastgate flap today and moved the flap manually seems with a push down on the flap slightly and try and move it open and closed it gets caught on something like the inside of the dump i will have to pull it off to really find out wats going on

also should there be some up and down play in the actuall flap or should it sit solid i have about 2mm of play???

thanks again

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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its hitting the middle of the split bit of the dump that seperates the wastegate and turbo exhaust gases, maybe try grinding out enough from the divider so the waste gate doesn't foul on it

yeah i will mate thanks

but y do you reckon its just started doing it????

the car was fine and then one day it just started doing it maybe heat shrink thats all i can think off unless the exauhst is starting to sag possibly because there is no hanger on the after market front pipe???

is there anything else anyone can think off that would cause this

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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Colder nights?

nah it happens all the time during the day at night whenever it wants

the only time it doesnt do it is the first time you get into it

is it possible my bov could be leaking its a drift vent to atmo its a year old but would the pressure loss under load cause my problem

Thanks again

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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yeah if it was leaking enough it cause these issues. Can you tighten the spring on it?

it is a drift adjustable one you can just turn the top to hard i will do that tommoro before i go to work it would be great if that was the issue lol

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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it is a drift adjustable one you can just turn the top to hard i will do that tommoro before i go to work it would be great if that was the issue lol

well that isnt my issue gonna take the dump off now check all vacumm lines cant think of anything else it could be

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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put a standard dump of my rb20 turbo today and there is still a spot on the standard dump where it seems to catch and i stilol have the same issuse i must have soime sort of air leak or something cause i cannot find the issue

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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Sounds like your timing is retarded?

yeah it feels like that but i dont no why it just started happening

if the CAS(crank angle sensor) is faulty or somehow loose do you think it would cause my timing issues making the turbo boost creep

i have also found a decent exauhst leak from the flanges the cat bolts to under load it would leak a fair bit is it possible there could be some sort of pressure loss or drop causing the boostcreep and timing retarding

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
yeah it feels like that but i dont no why it just started happening

if the CAS(crank angle sensor) is faulty or somehow loose do you think it would cause my timing issues making the turbo boost creep

i have also found a decent exauhst leak from the flanges the cat bolts to under load it would leak a fair bit is it possible there could be some sort of pressure loss or drop causing the boostcreep and timing retarding

I have seen upto 5psi more boost in a GTR with the base timing retarded 12degrees. You need to get it to a well respected tuner because I'm just speculating here. Its the type of issue I would find in 10min on the dyno.

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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I have seen upto 5psi more boost in a GTR with the base timing retarded 12degrees. You need to get it to a well respected tuner because I'm just speculating here. Its the type of issue I would find in 10min on the dyno.

yeah its booked in i just would have liked to have been able to deal with the issue myself but oh well will update shortly thanks

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

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im gonna change the ecu and see if that does anything.

The new ecu i have is an auto one.

now i no you can run a manual box behind a factory auto and bridge the neutral/drive switch telling the ecu its in park not drive but will there be anything on a factory manual loom that will need to be tinkerd with to run auto ecu behind a factory manual car

or will it be plug and play??

this is only to see if my current ecu is working or wheather thats the problem

Thanks

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