Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys, iv been doin research on the IBC and heaps of stuff, but not really helping with that im after. iv just installed a gizzmo IBC on my r33 gtst. which has front mount and 3" zorst.

i just cant seem to get what psi i want. im only after 10psi at the moment. i hav duty at 10ish i think and gain at 2.. i stoped it going over 15psi. what am i doin wrong.

can som1 explain how to set it properly. i have read the manual online and still stuck.

what settings should i use? if any1 could help that would be awsum

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/
Share on other sites

set the gain to zero.

then increase the duty up slowly whilst accel in 3rd or 4th (4th better) usually the duty will be between 30 and 35 to achieve 13-14psi BUT everycar is slightly different as the gate pressures vary slightly.

once the boost is set increase the gain until it spikes then come back 5 points.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5186532
Share on other sites

set gain to 0. and duty at min 10. still goin over 10psi??

check that your solenoid is hooked up correctley. what is the boost run when the solenoid is removed from the circuit? ie boost source straight to the actuator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5189186
Share on other sites

check that your solenoid is hooked up correctley. what is the boost run when the solenoid is removed from the circuit? ie boost source straight to the actuator?

with the standard boost controll it was stock. lyk 4psi untill 4500revs than a little bit more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5190681
Share on other sites

boost to port 3 actuator to port 2 on the solenoid? nothing else tee'd into those lines? they must only go to the solenoid then directley to the actuator. Post a pic of the install.

One other thing is the vacuum source to the main unit kinked or squashed at the firewall grommet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5190774
Share on other sites

boost to port 3 actuator to port 2 on the solenoid? nothing else tee'd into those lines? they must only go to the solenoid then directley to the actuator. Post a pic of the install.

One other thing is the vacuum source to the main unit kinked or squashed at the firewall grommet?

i will post a pic up 2moro afternoon after work, im pritty sure i have the rite ones. i bascially just copyed the stock ones. but the post to intercooling piping is going where the stock one was, wich is off the plumbed back pipe off stiock bov, next to block above zorst manifold and to left. the line going in2 the unit goes through the passenger gromit, no pinching that i could see. ill post a pic 2moro.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5190795
Share on other sites

nar turns out plumb back pipe was the problem, so im guesing it would only allow air to get in wen it blew off. its now connected to a T somewhere else and workes perfect. thanx for ppls help

thats what i noticed in the pics, the boost source for the solenoid was in the wrong spot (hookes to std boost controller dump port in the plumb back line)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317170-gizzmo-ibc/#findComment-5197104
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...