Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the yellowness in your night shots (im fairly sure) is incorrect white balance settings. some of your night shots look like the right setting, then some are completely yellow so i'm guessing you have been experimenting with it?

im no expert but I have a decent camera i like to toy with, just sharing my findings

Aren't some of them Yellow because the street lights are yellow? like the lights at Mt Lofty car park.

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Aren't some of them Yellow because the street lights are yellow? like the lights at Mt Lofty car park.

yep thats it, i pretty much just change it all on photoshop anyway

alrite guys did a shoot with an R1 and really didnt get many shots done cause of being tight on time, so only got 1 location done

30285_118074588230321_109368819100898_95690_4313970_n.jpg

30285_118074668230313_109368819100898_95700_3801546_n.jpg

30285_118075484896898_109368819100898_95702_4395807_n.jpg

only managed to squeeze 13 decent shots

but hey guys if your keen on doing some shots, let me know through a pm or facebook guys :ninja: cheers adam

Hey mate, I would definately be keen on having some shots done of the GTR when I get it back. I have a few locations picked out that I would love to get some day and also night-time shots done at.

I'll hit you up with a PM in the next few weeks.

  • 3 weeks later...
hey mate,

i'm definately interested, your photos look awesome..i'll get in touch with you mate.

cheers buddy, dont forget to keep in contact with me for photos as i tend to have a shit memory haha

but here are some more from another shot i did with a ve ss

rest on facebook

28835_123396717698108_109368819100898_111174_4499162_n.jpg

28835_123396737698106_109368819100898_111175_3744163_n.jpg

28835_123396784364768_109368819100898_111181_1359455_n.jpg

28835_123396811031432_109368819100898_111186_3904667_n.jpg

dave yeah i know i gave him so much shit for the car in general, $50k the idiot paid for it! couldve had a nice r34 gtr

anyway did just did another shot last night with josie and her supra, check it out

28835_123812330989880_109368819100898_112338_8301254_n.jpg

28835_123812397656540_109368819100898_112349_2139092_n.jpg

28835_123812407656539_109368819100898_112350_7079779_n.jpg

28835_123812437656536_109368819100898_112355_2298033_n.jpg

28835_123812494323197_109368819100898_112365_4126489_n.jpg

28835_123812530989860_109368819100898_112373_7927743_n.jpg

btw does anyone know why this page keeps changing to that annoying style where it only shows the first post and everything else is documented? would prefer the other style cause im always updating this page

Edited by follar99
i wanna like supras, i do, but the things some owners do to them make baby jesus cry.

haha yeah its like that sometimes with these cars, i mean this was a very nice clean example, then you see sexspec ones.....nooo...its kind of an insult to the 2jz

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...