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Heya, I'm trying to get second hand shocks put on my 33 quikly as im a) Broke and b) Have shocks on that are to short, need to drive to work y'know heh.

So i've had a look at some second hand shocks without springs and found there's almost no resistance when I push the rods in. Seems like this SHOULDN'T be the case, and when my mechanic was demonstrating my rooted stock shocks he took off he was able to move the rod in and out without any resistance what so ever.

Obviously I don't know TOO much about this and a forum search didn't yield an accurate answer.

Heya, I'm trying to get second hand shocks put on my 33 quikly as im a) Broke and b) Have shocks on that are to short, need to drive to work y'know heh.

So i've had a look at some second hand shocks without springs and found there's almost no resistance when I push the rods in. Seems like this SHOULDN'T be the case, and when my mechanic was demonstrating my rooted stock shocks he took off he was able to move the rod in and out without any resistance what so ever.

Obviously I don't know TOO much about this and a forum search didn't yield an accurate answer.

Seems like you know enough. You should be able to compress shocks under steady downward force, with a reasonable amount of effort. The quicker the action/ (ompression/extension), the greater the resistance/effort required to achieve compression/extension. If you can do the job with ease both quick & slow, they are stuffed.

FYI, my take on how shock absorbers function.

Shock absorbers work on passing a volume of oil or gas either side of a sealed piston arrangement from one reservior to another via a restrictor (valve or series of valves). If the seal on the piston(s) is not able to do it's job & hold pressure, (dodgy/leaking/lost fluid~gas/worn cylinder walls, etc.,) then damping medium will not go were it should (via valve/restrictor) but just pass faulty sealing arrangement back into the reservior it came from.

My 2c

Cheers GW

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