Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just fitted my RB30 to my R33 GTR.. What a cow of a job, partly due to the setup I am running on the turbo and that little bit of block hieght makes quite a difference!

I would like to know for you guy's that have them in your R33's. Did you space the front of the sub-frame down a few mm to give the front of the engine more bonnet clearance? Or have you just taken out the factory sound proofing and put some adhesive heat relfective stuff on the bonnet so when it bounces around it doesn't rattle?? Also where the top mount turbo is must be more than just a little close so do you need to run some heat relfective matt above the turbo to protect the bonnet? And again where the turbo and manifold are all quite close to the suspension turret and the wiring loom running along this do you re-route the loom if possible ? Or just get some heat reflective shielding for it? I guess the metal brake and A/C pipes are okay? Or do I need to do some metal shields for them too?!

It all closes fine but I noticed you only need to press the bonnet above the timing cover by a couple of mm before it hits!

Some advice please guy's.

Cheers

Lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319360-rb30-engine-fitting-into-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

I have just fitted my RB30 to my R33 GTR.. What a cow of a job, partly due to the setup I am running on the turbo and that little bit of block hieght makes quite a difference!

1. I would like to know for you guy's that have them in your R33's. Did you space the front of the sub-frame down a few mm to give the front of the engine more bonnet clearance?

2. Or have you just taken out the factory sound proofing and put some adhesive heat relfective stuff on the bonnet so when it bounces around it doesn't rattle??

3. Also where the top mount turbo is must be more than just a little close so do you need to run some heat relfective matt above the turbo to protect the bonnet?

4. And again where the turbo and manifold are all quite close to the suspension turret and the wiring loom running along this do you re-route the loom if possible ? Or just get some heat reflective shielding for it? I guess the metal brake and A/C pipes are okay? Or do I need to do some metal shields for them too?!

It all closes fine but I noticed you only need to press the bonnet above the timing cover by a couple of mm before it hits!

Some advice please guy's.

Cheers

Lee

1. i haven't moved my engine at all.

2. still using the factory sound proofing on the bonnet, i haven't noticed any rattles?

3. get a turbo beanie if you are worried - reduces under bonnet temps and looks nice.

4. i use some of the ACL heat shield like you find on XR6 Turbos

post-32350-1273021793_thumb.jpg

Hi Titan,

Your turbo is smaller and sits lower so that helps.. do you not have any signs on the timing belt cover of the bonnet rubbing on it? It must be bouncing when you drive along as there is littler about 2-3mm clearance from what I can tell?!

I might put some 10mm spacer and lift the rear of the bonnet on the hinges which will aid cooling anyway and give me a little more room for the turbo to clear.. I preusme a turbo beenie is the heatwrap that goes around the exhaust housing? might look into one.. Are they turbo specific?

Cheers

Lee

yes they are turbo model specific.

like this http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...p?partno=5RTC-2

the only sign of rubbing at all that i have is from a piece of hose that joins the cam covers and the top of that sits ~1" higher than everything else.

I measured the height difference and calculated what height i neede and had aluminium engine mounts made.

Simply its just 2 boxes with an angled top plane. Then i drilled and tapped holes with offsets to get the distance to the firewall correct.

Im using the factory RB30 engine brackets, sold my RB25s with the old engine. Works good so far but im nervous about how long the brackets will hold since they're plane metal welded together and im expecting to get somewhere around 1000Nm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...