brother_david

Yeah i thought it all sounded a bit dodgy, came across that piece of 'info' in a forum, and as we all know what is said in forums is true It all seems to work just fine, the 'TPS idle' lights up when idling but i just cant get the idle as smooth as i want it to, though im running 850cc injectors so i might not get it just right IMO. Its been tempting to run Link (or Vipec, same thing), Haltec or any other ECU so that i can get rid of the AFM but i kind of like Nistune, not that big but a great option if youre happy with using a AFM. Actually ran 2x Q45 AFMs last year in my RB31/26DETT, running them through a SAFC let me get past the one-afm-only restriction That engine was a bit much, I gave it a basic tuning on the streets, anything else was impossible but now im back with a more street-happy stocker so hopefully i wouldnt need to tune it on a dyno first thing.

Ive fitted a q45 tb to my greddy intake manifold. Im using Nistune in my R33 Gtst and as far as i know youre supposed to reset/learn the new voltage by switching the ignition on and off fot 20 times, can someone confirm this?

Just to throw some wood in the fire.. mine came with that front bumper, still had the middle bar though. Its a late 93, said to be a Type M by those who say that they exist

I think both black and white colours hide the shapes of a car, like it in Color-TV, Millenium Jade

Never had it dynoed, would guess about 700hp at 1.5 bar w/ bad tune running low 10s AFR.

I've got 19x8.5" +38 in front, needed spacing 5-10mm to look spot on so +32 might not be that bad, running 19x9.5" +35 rear, looks good as is

Havent read anything in this post for a long time but i thought i might input this: Ran a RB31/26DETT without problems. R33 GTST S1 harness without VCT hooked up Q45 Throttlebody Twin Q45 AFMs through Apexi SAFC-II (2 in 1 out with average output) 1600CC injectors through GTR resistor pack R32 GTR coils and much more.. While it was beeing built: Worked a treat, sad to see the engine gone, sold it some months ago.

I like this topic

Theres massive amounts of threads on this, doesnt only seem like the turbo since its getting high oil pressure, i would check if the breathers are fine too. Might be both.

Yes, wouldnt want them 'cause of the cables rusting away in 6 months either, not looking forward to a complete harness swap, including every cable in the car, also feels a bit bad since its due to a major disaster

Due to the situation in Japan right now i guess this wont be for a while but ive sent you a PM.

Im looking for a new project and needs some heads up to where i can find a salvage/damaged R34 GT-R in AU or Japan, anyone got any tips?

After i sell my ECR33 ill get me a 350GT, thinking of changing the headlights to G37 ones, but im going to buy a wide body kit too so its getting a real makeover. If you cant hunt down black trim then get them painted or sand and paint them yourself if you believe you can get a good enough result

Ive bought the RB26 ones but im running a greddy intake, otherwise itll hit the intake pipe/throttlebody, Also i needed to make a whole in the cam cover for the bulging thing on the intake cam.

Haha they should anyway

A friend of mine works at Rolls Royce Marine so i would put him on the job, also when i was going to order shims for the valves on my RB26 head they said it would take up to 2 months to get it to Sweden. Ended up with ordering them from RHD instead, at 1/4 of the price too. So no one knows the dimensions?

Does anyone know the outer/inner diameter of the shim so that i can make my own in a lathe?

I would say that you should check if theres oil residue in the coolant, most reapir shops and some gas stations have these. Even though it doesnt shoow as oilreflections in the water there scould still be some. After this you could clean off the milky oil and start it to see if it comes back, though i would recommend you to check most other possibilites before this. When i build my RB30/26 it had milky oil on the oil lid but that was just vapour. I had a problem with missfire but i traced that to aluminium blocking one of the injectors, a small piece was left in the fuelrail after the bore (ordered a custom length fuelrail and bored it myself due to the size of the injectors). If theres nothing wrong with either the fuel or the ignition side there must be a problem inside the engine, though it doesnt seem likely to me since it should appear when under load rather then on idle.

Going through the same thing but i havent put the engine in yet though, im using S1 loom, S1 coils and igniter but im going to see the result with S2 TPS and CAS, if i have to get these too or not.

Not the same turbo though.. ;P The S2 is a ceramic one, the S1 is a metal piece meaning itll last longer Ill have to investigate all this with the wiring to the TPS, guess ill hook up NisTune and check if it gives a correct signal, better use a low-amp fuse when testing it out so that i dont sent 12v instead of 5v to the ECU. Not sure about the CAS wiring though, they are different but a friend of mine has got a S1.5 (non-igniter, should be S2 engine) but he has got a S1 CAS by the looks of it.

Thanks mate! Had a look and its clearly a difference with one/two connectors. Form building my RB30 using a Q45 TB i remeber that it has two connectors too but i just used one, no problem. I guess now my question is if its possible to use the S2 TPS with my S1 loom? Been reading alot and one of the posts stated that there is no problem at all, others stating that there should be.

Searched and not really found what the difference between these two is, so dows anyone know what it is? Im using a S2 engine with a S1 loom/harness.

Looking for the short harness running from the igniter pack to the coilpacks, from an R33 GTST Series 1 Thanks David

Looking for the short harness running from the igniter pack to the coilpacks, from an R33 GTST Series 1 Thanks David

Thanks for the help, looks like im going to change the coils to S1 then, luckly ive got the old igniter pack laying around Ill also be looking at a S1 CAS then, read somewhere that it needs to be modified to fit the S2 engine, but someone else said that the S2 CAS will work with the S1 harness :S Reason why i havent bought the S2 harness and ECU is that i've got Nistune in the S1 ECU, used it for my RB31/26DETT build. Now that engine is sold but i've got a GT3076, SARD 800cc's and a Q45 AFM along with some more parts that im going use in this engine so ill be wanting to keep Nistune