brother_david

Just 'cause its fun.. Picked up my cambelt today from a local store. Called them yesterday and ordered Dayco cambelt #94407 and the guy, actually a friend of mine that i've helped with his S13 build, asked me why i wanted a Mazda 323 1.7 Diesel cambelt Its the correct belt though

Thanks man, must have missed it, dont wanna be one of those 'how much boost can a stock rb25det take'-guy

Hi all! Im planning of using the series 2 RB30e block, stock for now, with stock RB25DET head (new turbo inj. etc). What do you reckon the compression will be? Also will the spring valves be in the risk of floating if i keep the revs >6500 rpms? Cheers! Dave

Thanks for all your help Its probably gonna be a VL spec 2 RB30 with the oil and water all set to go. Although money is accually an issue i wouldnt buy an already built engine, it something magic with putting it together yourself also since im doing this whole thing for the fun of it

That is very true Im aiming at 450-500 rwkw at a first stage so for now i dont need an RB30 i guess. I can imagine that if i would like to go higher then that an RB30 would be the way to go?

Thanks for your help I found a company that exports RB30's worldwide and it wouldnt be that expensive either. But i've done some more research and it seems that some think it might be a bit unnesseccary and not worth the hazzle and problems occurring. That had me thinking that it might be better if i use my stock RB25DET bottom end and buy pistons, con rods and cams

I've lately been looking at buying a RB30 from a VL Commodore for a RB30/25DET build. It wouldnt be a problem if they were actually sold here but they're not, Im from Sweden and its more likely that i find marsmen here then an RB30.. Does anyone have a suggestion of how i could solve this problem? The only idea i've got for now is to import the whole engine, or the needed parts, from Australia. I've been looking at Ebay and theres a few VL engines there but everyone wants a pick-up and probably not a 'Can you ship it to Sweden?'. Any help very much appreciated! Cheers Dave

Sounds like the CAS is acting up, my car acted the same, would start in the beginning if you pushed it but it got worse and worse until it wounldnt start at all. Pulled the CAS and gave it a spin by hand, sounded like a peppergrinder Changed it and everything was good!

Thats not the smallest and easiest project you could come up with If you want to hide the turbo (the stock position is quite hidden IMO) then you'd need a new manifold, but none around positions the turbo anywhere hidden. Just keep it as it is stock and make custom heatshield to hide that and the downpipe You could allways try to fit it closer to the front, then it would be hidden behind some of hte engine parts but it would need alot of new piping to be manufactured. Not a problem as long as you know how to though

Got same prob but at a smaller scale.. I live in Sweden, cars running in Japan runs great, gets here and then goes rich and/or eats up sparkplugs, guess its due to other air conditions, density, temperature etc. Could you please send the million in Swedish krones? 1 000 000,00 AUD gives 6 136 000,00 SEK. Thank you. .. .....

Im really grateful for your help Feeling more and more comfortable with going for the 14cm^2 housing, sounds like its the way to go when building a HX35/40 later!

Im getting alot of good response Really intresting reading, feels like i should go with the 14cm^2 housing since, as you said, im going for a HX35/40 hybrid later on. Im gonna run a 38mm external wastegate welded onto the factory manifold. I was thinking about how the a/r is calculated though.. as i've understood, and read, a/r means area over ratio and a 14cm^2 would give, using the ekvation (PI*Dia^2)/4 or PI*radius^2 backwards: radius=1,05cm diameter 2,111cm in inch devided by 2.54= radius=0,41 diameter=0,83 So... is the size in a/r then 0.83...? Or have i just struck a lucky number slevin cause using the same ekvation i get a 0.76 for 12cm^2... Am i about to loose it Doctor? EDIT Found this, seems like im out biking beut this explains how it works in detail

Im upgrading my turbo, along with other appropriate mods, except internally which im keeping stock until this Autumn. Horsepower aim this summer is about 400-450hp. I will probably build myself a HX35/40 hybrid later on when im aiming higher. Im going for the Holset HX35 but i dont know what exhaust housing to choose, the 12, 12.5 or the 14. Cheers!

Thanks for your help Ill also send PJ a PM!

Been looking for injectors lately and after a friend of mine did injector test of acouple of injector brands i've been looking for RC Engineering injectors. Has anyone tried these? And also... has anyone got any 550-800cc injectors for the RB25 for sale? CHeers!

I wouldnt put my money on the CAS, more on a damage on the cylinder or a ring.. Weird though since the compression is solid. Other then that it does feel like an ignition problem but as you state, you've covered some of those areas Have you tried the diagnosis on the ECU? Or resetting the ECU? Drove a R33 GTR that wouldnt run as it should, stuttered, but that was due to a bad lambda, doesnt sound like it though!

Bout that rainfactor, my 400R Replica came with at rainguard, bolted on the inside, that can be taken away whenever you need those vents for real

Thanks everyone for your thought, really fun to hear after the last months of work! Haha ye the brakes look kinda.. tiny Another one for the 'to do in autumn'-list! I havent really decided if i like the space at the fuel flap yet. It gives away that its been widened, which is the idea, but so does alot of other things to

Really REALLY cool job there! Im impressed!

Finally back from the event! IM going to get a real photographer to take better photos but for now these will do

Yea, they wheels can really make or break a car! Im running these ni 19's (grey spokes): I held the rear quarters in place with the blue fix's you can see in the 'Meanwhile'-pic

Im keeping the GTR-wing, thinking of getting/manufacturing raise plates for the wing plane though, looks mean Heres a Before-Meanwhile-After serie regarding fitment of the rear quarters!

Heres another quickie... From yesterday that is Picking up everything but the front fenders today, hopefully ill get the rear fenders fitted today!

Haha Ye that'd be great, just try to hit the dent on the right side door! Heres an update, picked it up from the painters earlier today, getting the rest tomorrow and wednesday, at first i wasnt sure but now i must say im happy with the result They had been kind enough and fit the doors and bonnet for me, only thing was when i was in the trailer i couldnt get the door open, to tight in there... I mean in the trailer... nothing else... Anyways, the pics taken with my cellphone doesnt give the right effect of the color but its a hense. Sounds like that kind of wheels would look really sweet, Im hoping for a tight wheelfit, the temporary solution is spacers, 45 mm in front and 35 mm rear.. Yep wider in front, but its because the offset was wrong in the front earlier, so i needed to space them out more. Long time solution is new wheels with the correct offset/ET.

Thanks mate, cant wait to get it back from the paint iwth the last 2 layers of clear coat laid down! Will deffinetly post pics of that Got me worried there! But the wrinkles are simply reflections from stuff on the right side of me, otherwise i'd be very unhappy with the result